|Claim Jumper Wall
Climb the obvious flared dihedral right of Claim Jumper. Combines good jams with chimney/off-width technique.
Gear to 4", can use the anchors on One Armed Bandit.
|By Dave Kos|
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fun little trad diversion with a very different character from the other climbs on this wall. A little stiff for a Holcomb 5.7 and probably not a good choice for a new 5.7 trad leader. Protection is a bit tricky, but it's all there - just bring some big cams and/or hexes. Useful to have something really big (bigger than #5 camalot) for the bottom section, otherwise the first opportunity for decent pro is about 15' up in a small crack on the right wall of the chimney.
|By Justin Tomlinson|
From: Monrovia, CA
May 20, 2012
I was a little nervous about the blocks in the last steep section before the anchors. There is a lot of "loose" material, some of which is quite large. It's a matter of time before pieces of it come down and I hope nobody is there when it does.
With that being said, three of us climbed through them today. This is a fun varied route that climbs like a chiminey in the flared dihedral.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Sep 29, 2013
Climbed this on toprope today for a fun diversion from the sport routes around it. I can see where somebody would call the bottom section 5.7, if you were cool with climbing funky, steep, flaring chimneys with bad pro (unless maybe you have a set of big hexes). But this is going to be a shocker for anyone who is at Holcomb expecting 5.7.
The top section is more like what Holcomb has to offer in general, but still, not really. If you're okay with hand and fist jamming, this section of overhanging crack probably goes at 5.8, but if you're not, the platy face holds are infrequent and steep enough that it's more like a 9 or 10.
Long story short, don't be surprised.