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The Western Wing & Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
357 aka Angel (free version) T 
Alien Encounters T 
Endurance, The T 
French Free T 
Green Eggs and Cams T 
Jug Monkey T 
On Green Dolphin Street T 
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 

Green Eggs and Cams 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c A1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c A1 [details]
FA:  Dave Martin Aaron Rashaw 1998
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 703
Submitted By: Aaron Rashaw on May 10, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: As it looks in the Winter


Thin dirty crack to a thin hands crack/donger flake thru a roof. Slings are visible I think?


Up hill where the alcove kind of ends and starts to turn into a more vertical cliff.


Standard NH Rack

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By Aaron Rashaw
May 10, 2010

Not as sure on that one...I think maybe? Is the route up hill a bit in the alcove? Is the tree in the pic obscuring the flake/roof on top? Don't remember much else in that area so it could be it.
By Aaron Rashaw
May 10, 2010

yeah I'm pretty sure that is it, the bottom looks more familiar now.
By Aaron Rashaw
May 10, 2010

By john strand
From: southern colo
May 10, 2010

I been telling people that there can be some crazy ice at green's
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 28, 2012

I finally got back to this this weekend, after putting anchors in at the top with NHclimber a couple years ago. I got it pretty well cleaned up to the gear anchor at the top of the crack below the roof and TRed it, self belay. I have to finish cleaning the roof and upper crack to see how that goes and then go for the lead. At the bottom I stood on the blocks to the left and then took the upper right angling crack to get out to the zig and the obvious middle finger/hand crack.

So far, it looks like another Green's classic. I have to get some other photos that do it justice, hopefully with someone on it. In Rumney terms, the bottom is like the start of Cereal Killer, then the middle of Flying Monkeys, then Black Jack Crack to the roof of Giantman, with a wide fist finish (just what you need when you are all pumped!) instead of thin technical, except that it is crack climbing and granite, so not really alike at all, but that gives the flavor. I think the height all the way to the top is more like 80+ feet, but I'll give it a measure with my rope and check.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 28, 2012

At least 9+.. right Mark ?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 28, 2012

Yeah, lol. I was guessing maybe low 11 up to the first anchor. I surprised myself and got it first try, but I was pretty pumped at the end. That could very well be due to the fact that it was my third day on cleaning and I have hardly been able to climb this year. We'll have to see what it is like on lead and have others do it to get an accurate grade. It looks like the top will probably bump the whole thing up some.

There is a long angling line to the right of it that looks really good too and a possible easier route up left, so there will be a nice cluster there when done.
By Aaron Rashaw
Aug 28, 2012

Is the roof donger? I seem to remember that spooking us, just curious.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Sep 7, 2012

Yes, the big flake making the left side of the crack at the top is donger, but it seems pretty well attached at the top. I think it will be all right, though I wouldn't put a cam under it at the bottom. Luckily there is bomber solid gear in the finger crack leading too it, and it is just air below, so you can move up higher before putting a cam straight in to protect getting to the anchor. Pulling the roof crack is going to be a blast.

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