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|Administrators:||andy patterson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)|
|Submitted By:||EricT on Feb 5, 2006|
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|re: Bishop this weekend- best spots for cold weather climbing||Josh Hutch||12 hours ago|
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|Comments on Green Dome||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Feb 8, 2006
The texture and friction of the rock at the Green Dome is very different then the sandstone in the surrounding area. It takes a little getting used to.
Many of routes start off strong but as you approach the top of the crag the rock becomes more fragmented. The resulting climbs tend to be loose and relatively uninteresting near the top, hence the tendency to be PG between the last bolt and the anchors.
By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jul 21, 2006
|Steve Edwards touts this as an undiscovered gym. I would advise passing on it unless you just want to tick off a new area. It isn't bad climbing, but it isn't great - and SB has some great climbing.|
By andy patterson
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 8, 2008
I couldn't disagree less with Kristin.
While there are some decidedly un-memorable routes here in the easier grades, once you enter the 5.12 realm, the climbing improves dramatically. Monsters in the Maze (5.12b) is truly one of the best lines I've ever been on in Santa Barbara. While I haven't climbed on the other 12's and 13's yet (emphasis on YET), they look spectacularly technical and fun.
By bob wert
Jun 3, 2011
I agree with Andy. The "easier" climbing on the east side of the dome tends to be crumbly. I believe Steve Edwards once made "screamer of the month" taking a long whipper off a breaking hold.
The harder climbing on the west side is very athletic and amazingly good. The rock is very clean and features small, sharp crimpers.
"Monsters in the Maze" is perhaps the easiest of the 5.12s there. Although it's rated 5.12b, it's really 5.12c (specially since holds have come off over time). The 12c grade has been confirmed by visiting climbers. Of course when you're as strong as Andy, 12c or 12b all feels like 5.11
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Mar 14, 2012
For the record my 'screamer of the month' here came when I was dropped from the anchors to the ground. I rarely broke holds here. Of course I glued a lot of them but, hey, like Ruckman said about the blankness of Private Little War when I was bolting it, "hit it long enough with a hammer and you'll have a chimney."
Monsters is the same route. At least it was a few years ago when I did it last. Yes, it's hard but Kryptor hard, which really just takes getting used to (no matter where you've climbed for some reason). It's a lot easier than everything else, especially since the crux hold broke on Quartz Crystal.