||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Cory Fleagle/Liz Donley/Chris "Fergie"|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||679|
|Submitted By: ||Cor on Oct 17, 2006|
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BETA PHOTO: Lower overview.
This is just a brief overview/description of the climb:
P1. Head up slope to gully (not descent gully), that is capped by large chockstone. Climb prominent dihedral (right-facing) through a slot up top to a ledge belay.
P2. Continue up cracks, going up easy ledges, and corners. Continue to walkable grass ledge, and up towards the south/west face of spire. You can walk off left to descent gully from here. This pitch is long, and to make it up to the bottom of the upper face requires simulclimbing.
P3. Start up left-most dihedral (left-facing) on upper wall. Exit the dihedral up and left, toward ledge with an optional belay.
P4. Continue up the face using cracks and weaknesses. Trend up and leftward toward the arete. Pass a KB pin when you get to the arete, continue up arete to large long ledge.
P5. Go up the last part of the tower with a thin crack start, pull up to right (around small corner) up to roof with wide crack, pull out left, and finish up to summit.
Note: there are several good pitches we did that are right of this route. Some have a pin or two, and one ledge has two old 1/4" bolts. These are all fun, and about 5.9-5.10 range (I think?) none of these pitches are listed in any books that I could find....
This route starts on the far left side of the spire in a gully that's capped by a huge chockstone. This gully is in between the descent gully and the main wall with the standard routes.
Standard alpine rack up to #3.5 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Upper overview.