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BETA PHOTO: The "Green Bucket" is just left of the l...
Climb the block left of Nubble Face to a ledge below underclings and side pulls along with slick feet. Move up to the "green bucket" hold and then up and over the overhang. This route at Carderock may not live up to its rating compared to some other classics.
Just left of Nubble Face and climber's right from the down climb. Move too far right on the side pulls and underclings and you're on Desperation.
This is a boulder problem on top rope.
By Dave Rockwell
Nov 20, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
proper technique quickly reduces this to a 5.8, though a very nice one. undercling, sidecling, layback as per usual.
By Chris Irwin
From: Silver Spring, Maryland
Feb 8, 2016
this is really a one move wonder... but it's a good one move wonder. There are several variations through the crux: left, center, right and far right.
Apr 17, 2016
The current Carderock guide calls this a 10b. I think people finding this easier might be climbing straight up to the Green Bucket hold and then pulling the overhang, which does feel 5.8 or 5.9. However, the guidebook diagram has you going up a thin crack system until beneath the overhang and then traversing right to get under the Green Bucket. Doing it this way, I felt it was on par with most other Carderock 10s I have done, and the thin crack system was the clear crux for me. But everyone gets a different feel off a climb.