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I lead the easier route to the left first, then se...
The whole climb is consistent difficulty. Finger dihedral most of the climb with cool stemming positions. Easy exit for finish with fist crack/jug.
About 35ft to the right of Direct North Boulder. It's easy to find because it's the cleanest dihedral that's begging for you to climb it. You can either rap from the anchor or continue right and up to link up with Direct Service or the face.
Sm-med sized gear. Optional large pro near the top and a bolted anchor at the finish.
Green Book, and then to the top!
BETA PHOTO: The Green Book. Whippet Thin (.11?) moves up and l...
By Jason Partin
From: San Diego, CA
Mar 2, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great climb!!! Three-to-four finger-and-smaller master cams or aliens recommended if you're not a confident 5.9 leader. I saw skilled climbers skipping a placement, but there's a risk of decking if you don't place a second piece soon after the first. I'd recommend a minimum of three placements.
Dec 17, 2010
A newer bolt directly above the Green Book makes it even easier to link GB to Direct Service and reach the top of the Pinnacle in one long pitch. Communication gets difficult once the leader gets through the Short Link, and there is a little unavoidable rope drag, but on the whole it's an interestingly varied and well-protected climb. 60M rope requires 2 rappels to reach the ground.