Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch) Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: West side of Greeley northern pond. East facing se...
Northwest ridge facing eastward has various ice climbs and is dependent on winter conditions to how thick the ice is. Lean snow years mean thickest ice here apparently.
Furthest south is one long pitch, dike. I had only heard of it but did find it and climbed it one summer. I called it 'Dear Ticks and Black Flies'. The dike was originally climbed in the late 1970's by the Rumney ice climbing locals. Today it is famously known as the 'Drool of the Beast', (WI5-). Way back then in the 1980's it was known as the Miniature (mini) Black Dike. N.E. Climbs has a decent photo of it and so does neice.com
There is a very long wide cascade coming down from nearly the Summit of East Osceola trail(where the trail veers right and heads up steeply, the cascade stream bed is to the left. This stream bed is all ice when conditions are right (WI3) otherwise a long snow slog with a few ice bulges and a great view at the top. Much was no rope soloed by me in the early 1980's but not the dike. I had only one friend that climbed here with me. That was Tom Bowker. We did a plastic glass pitch somewhere in the middle of these ledges with no protection beyond one very small tree on it. Afterward there was a snow field to grade two bulges that we climbed no rope soloing. This year 2012 the conditions of the west facing ice wall that I can see have new lines to climb. It's February though and the conditions could change to being poorly climbable before March.
I invite you to take it all in. Greeley Pond is close to only the east facing wall. This wall has at least two climbs on it.
Hike on Greeley Ponds trail towards the ponds from the Kancamagus Highway. Before the ponds are reached keep looking up southwestward to see the ridge through the trees. In about 2 miles you'll reach the climbs.
Climbing Season For the * Ice and Mixed Climbing area.
Weather station 0.4 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch) :
Featured Route For Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)
The 5.8 Hand JAM Ice Pillar
: * Ice and Mixed Climbing
: ... : West side of Greeley northe...
This crazy thing looks like a straight on sight fat pillar but it got a surprise ending sometimes. The surprise is a deep vertical gutter at the top with less than a inch walls surrounding the gutter's sides. There's no place to sink a tool. There's plenty of ice though and you'd have a great screw placement before the gutter has to be hand jammed at 5.8 rock grade for 10+ ft. I was no rope soloing and I couldn't have been in a more perplexing position. Burned out arms from the pillar and suspen...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
|Comments on Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 29, 2012
Bradley, I think I got the sub areas re-ordered correctly and the routes in the correct section. Could you check for me and let me know if anything still needs to be moved? I'll leave it to you to edit the area descriptions since some of the sentences are no longer pertinent, and arrange the routes left to right when you get the chance. Thanks
By bradley white
Dec 15, 2012
Thanks for the improvement Mark and the area doesn't need south of north greeley pond. The cascade is on the west side. I'm going to have too get some decent photos.