Greece Climbing Possiblity

I go to Greece most summers to visit. Always wondered whether some of the stuff where I go was climbable (there is no established climbing scene on this island). Looking for some more experienced input. I still have trouble figuring out where the hell to put my hand on easy established routes. Certainly don't have the ability to see routes/determine quality/etc. But hopefully one of you can tell me if it'd be worth it to try or if I'd be wasting time (and more importantly money to get stuff there).

I'm including photos below of some stuff that I thought looked somewhat interesting as well as a few photos of the rock (not sure if you can tell the quality by seeing a picture but maybe you could at least tell me what kind it is?).

None of it is super tall. And I don't think any of it is really overhanging or super steep, and there's definitely some better stuff that I don't have photos of.

Rock Close Up (sort of):

Better Close Up:


These are probably 50 ft high:


Different spot (maybe 100 ft):


Another one (maybe 100 ft):


Another photo that shows rock formations (these are more like 10-15 ft):


Deceptive (as in that's not really one big wall), but I know there are bigger cliffs on that island:

Yes I'd say some of that rock is "climbable".
Which sections of it, and how much of it?\
The truth is in the details.

And in tricky questions like, How much work are you willing to put in to clear vegetation and loose rock? and
How much vertical and distance you're willing to haul how much weight of equipment from the nearest drivable road.

Most important: How willing you are to climb alone? bouldering or rope-solo.

Myself I'm not interested in visiting to help out.
Because there's a hundred lifetimes of climbable rock like that around the Mediterranean, and I know more than enough to keep me (and my partners) busy for my single remaining life -- without taking an airplane or ferry to an island.

Ken

P.S. If you want to experience what it's like to find (and clean) "unknown" possibly-climbable rock around metro NYC region, send me a message thru MP with your phone + email.

The rock--at least in your second picture, is clearly limestone, and that is the most common rock type in the Greek islands (mainland as well). As for quality, no way of really telling from the pictures, though much of the limestone in the Med. region is of good quality so the odds are in your favor. "Good quality" however doesn't mean perfect, so most new routes will require considerable care (especially if leading ground up)and appropriate 'loose rock tactics'. It is not unusual, particularly in areas being developed for sport climbing, for there to be considerable pre-cleaning from above before the routes are bolted and considered to be in 'climbable' condition.

You have not identified 'your' island, but why do you believe that to crags there are unclimbed? In addition to the well-publicized spots--most notably Kalymnos, many of the other islands have seen varying amounts of climbing development that have been little publicized, and since some of this has been done in 'trad' style (though most has been bolted)you might not be able to tell if what you are climbing has had previous ascents. My suggestion is to bring your gear and give it a try--maybe first on a top-rope to get the feel of the rock. Though in summer I presume that the temperatures for most of the day aren't going to be very conducive to climbing. Have fun. Alan

Alan Rubin wrote:
> ... appropriate 'loose rock tactics' ... considerable pre-cleaning from above
> before the routes are bolted and considered to be in 'climbable' condition.

For some rock this "cleaning" is most effectively done (on rappel) with a crowbar and heavy hammer.
I think a number of crags popular today were years ago dismissed by well-experienced climbers as "choss piles" -- before they got the serious cleaning treatment.

At least a "full-thickness" steel nutpick tool is almost always useful.

Pruning shears for bushy vegetation on the cliff or on approaches.
Serious gardening gloves for prickly stuff (hopefully only on approaches?).

Ken