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Greatest Show on Earth 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: Eric Z
Page Views: 1,981
Submitted By: Brian Runnells on Mar 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: EZ climbing the direct exit. Picture shamelessly s...

Description 

Start on underclings and climb straight up the center of the largest boulder. I think the problem was originally topped out by climbing straight up, however recent repeats have found that escaping left is both easier and somewhat less scary. Do what gets you psyched.

Location 

Located on the main boulder and it is the most obvious line.

Protection 

As the topout is very high and insecure you will need plenty of pads/spotters.


Photos of Greatest Show on Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Just after the crux.
Just after the crux.
The opening move
The opening move
Midway through.
Midway through.
Vinny using his short-guy beta.
Vinny using his short-guy beta.
Ian coming so close on a perfect fall day.
Ian coming so close on a perfect fall day.
Greatest Show goes straight up the face. <br /> <br />Could use a bit of spring cleaning.
BETA PHOTO: Greatest Show goes straight up the face. Could us...
Nic at the top.
Nic at the top.
The top-out is super dirty, but what an amazing climb.
The top-out is super dirty, but what an amazing cl...
On the opening moves this past Saturday.
On the opening moves this past Saturday.
Jeff on the Greatest Show.
Jeff on the Greatest Show.
Greatest Show!
Greatest Show!

Comments on Greatest Show on Earth Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 5, 2013
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 19, 2009

Nice work on posting this Remo. The problem does look sick! I wants to climbs it!
By SteveSchultz
May 19, 2009

Did you get on it remo??
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 19, 2009

I tried the opening moves, and it seems doable. But man, this thing is soooo dirty, and the top-out is a carpet of moss. Needs a lot of cleaning. I think this is my new found love project, beautiful boulder!
By Brian Runnells
May 20, 2009

How did the rock seem?
By Tom Petraitis
From: Evanston, IL
Aug 21, 2009

I somehow smelled this semi-highball from the East Bluff trail and found some cats watching a guy try the low moves. I joined in and have been back a few times. The first move will test your micro-pinch strength on quartzite pebbles in the sandstone. If you get past there you're likely to peel off soon (which is probably for the best!). A few more micro-pebble pinches get you into the middle. One can only do these micro-pinches for a while before your hands can take no more. The middle moves get more interesting and are all about the sandstone huecos. The upper moves appear to be there but are really sketchy! I broke out the short rope and gave them a try. Project City.

The photo does not convey the 15 degree overhang.
By nicros fivten
Oct 25, 2009
rating: V8+ 7B+

Has this been cleaned off yet?
By Tradoholic
Oct 25, 2009

Negative, not clean. Pick a day and I can meet you there with a crew.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 21, 2010

Steve and Nic gave this rig a good cleaning and now she is in prime form. Nic sent very quickly and Steve and I played on it but the sends will have to wait for another day.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 22, 2010

sweet guys! great job nicoli! Any thought on the grade?
By nicros fivten
Mar 22, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

could be the bet at the lake? BS direct is 4 stars but this is really good. The rock quality is not great (at the top) but I think it would clean up.

as for the grade,

I did what I thought was the most logical exit (up and left out jugs). You could go direct and it would be hard, I did not do all the moves and it was dirty as hell.

Direct exit= v10?

left exit= v8/9?

The direct will be ultra contrived, but hard.

I think the left arete will be amazing.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 22, 2010

What's with all the V grades on the WI site with either "+" or "-" attached to them? Is the V scale not specific enough? Why not just call this V9? Or a V10? Be bold; take a stance.

Of all the rating scales, I think the V scale is the most subject to variables (such as height, reach, strength, etc.), so that splitting hairs beyond the specific number is meaningless.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 22, 2010

thats true Jay. By saying V7 you are saying it is in the grade of 7 which has a spectrum in itself. I suppose the + and - is just kind of help spell it out to where exactly it falls in the spectrum.

Nicoli, thanks for the work you guys did. looks like fun and im psyched to get on it. is that arete a project? did you try it?
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 22, 2010

Good points Jay and Sweaty. The spectrum can be huge for one grade. I figured since MP lists + and - it was ok to use them. But I agree, I'm not a fan. MP should just do away with it.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 22, 2010

Sure it is ok to use the "-" and "+", but I was making the point that maybe it is a bit too rampant on the WI site. You guys are pulling really hard out there. You should give yourself the credit you deserve. Upgrades for everything!
By nicros fivten
Mar 22, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

Jay,


I did not put much thought into the grade because I didn't think much about it. I wanted to do the problem because it looked cool. It was. If I put it up I may take more time with the grade to give people an idea on its difficulty.

my vote is to add the v_._ scale. If I use that then it would be a V8.9
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 22, 2010

So now it's a V8+?

I'm confused.
By nicros fivten
Mar 22, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

sure.

-nic
By nicros fivten
Mar 23, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

Greatest Show On Earth
.

here is a video.
By nicros fivten
Mar 23, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

Sweaty,

I am unsure if the arete has been done but I have to think it has. Could be easy, Could be hard? I did not really try it. It would be a little forced to stay on the arete and not tread onto the slab.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 23, 2010

nicoli,

thank you for taking video. everyone should do so from now on for everything. that is a new rule.

do you have any intention on trying the straight up version?

I vote for your jug haul ending to be called 'the lamest show on earth'

that is all.
love.
sweaty
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 23, 2010

p.s. you made the thing look like piss.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2010

Sick video, thanks for posting it up. Nice job. I see Eric Z has joined and posted up some photos, so maybe he can comment on the line he took, although leaving something to the imagination has value as well IMO. I am sure both lines are damn hard, even if the direct would be somewhat contrived.

Oh and I agree about the split grades, though I think in some cases it's useful to say that something would be easier if you were tall, or whatever. Not that I am any type of expert heh.
By nicros fivten
Mar 23, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

I do want to try the direct. I think it would be very hard. Before I try it I do want to see what eric z did (for a repeat in proper fashion).
By Langlois
From: NYC
Mar 29, 2010

Aaron came real close to sending yesterday...Next time for sure
By nicros fivten
Mar 29, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

If you guys head back up bring some brushes and clean the boulder off a bit.
By nicros fivten
May 25, 2010
rating: V8+ 7B+

The climb in the video is not "The Greatest Show on Earth". What is is is a weird link or easier variation.

Greatest Show go's out right at the top to a horrifying mantle.
You can read and see photos here.

sickygnargnar.blogspot.com/201...

I have no idea what I climbed in the video but it went around V8ish? and IMO is the most obvious line on the boulder.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 12, 2010

Time to go scrub this thing down. In the words of EZ "Get on it!"
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Aug 26, 2011

This thing still untouched for 2011? It didn't even look that dirty when I saw it in early June.
By eric zschiesche
Dec 4, 2013

Just a quick set of thoughts in regard to this boulder. In regard to the problem that I sent,.. it is my sense, that it is slightly to the right of the described problem. As I recall ( Will see if I can locate some old slides to jostle the memory banks in a definitive way ), it utilized the right arete of the face at a certain point. So in a nutshell,... the center problem was sent by someone else. Though,... mostly an exercise in semantics,... clarity, if nothing else,.. can be informing..... This stated,... my general feeling ( with hindsight as a helpful partner ), is that I should have resisted the temptation to clean the top as extensively as I did. Sometimes,... our passions can blind us to the grander subtleties of the Earth. Happy trails....
By madisonchoss
Dec 5, 2013
rating: V10 7C+

Wow - thanks for the info, Eric. While hanging out at this boulder a bit this autumn I looked at the arete and wondered if any of y'all had checked it out. Sounds like you sort of split the difference between what's described here / and the arete. Just the arete seems to have a fairly obvious sit start and a heinous HP40 style topout.

Lots to do on this boulder. Classic Devil's Lake!