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Great White 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: John Mallery
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 4,246
Submitted By: alpineclimb on Sep 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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lily... i love this one...

Description 

Lower crux is moving between the 2nd and 3rd bolts and the upper crux is moving from the second to last bolt thru to the last bolt. Super crimpy, super sharp, powerful moves at the top. have shoes with good edging. Rest jug half way up on left in the crack.

Location 

Left of Waimea the climb.

Protection 

Quick draws required


Photos of Great White Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: sequence of lily making a tough clip
sequence of lily making a tough clip
Rock Climbing Photo: last but not least a shot of lily tucked in to the...
last but not least a shot of lily tucked in to the...
Rock Climbing Photo: lily crossing at the top
lily crossing at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Fall sequence, lily falls from the 5th bolt...
Fall sequence, lily falls from the 5th bolt...
Rock Climbing Photo: reaching...
reaching...
Rock Climbing Photo: lily
lily
Rock Climbing Photo: clipping
clipping
Rock Climbing Photo: Another one of Zeb on Great White this one shows s...
Another one of Zeb on Great White this one shows s...
Rock Climbing Photo: what inspires you?
what inspires you?
Rock Climbing Photo: Zeb on Great White 5.13a...
Zeb on Great White 5.13a...
Rock Climbing Photo: lily, focused
lily, focused
Rock Climbing Photo: lily on great white
lily on great white

Comments on Great White Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 20, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

video link of someone climbing the first 2/3 of Great White...
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

I really liked this route - I thought it had great, continuous movement. Because it is reasonably technical climbing with lots of feet, it makes for a nice change of pace from the 'big move between good holds' type of route that seems to be common on a lot of other Rumney routes at the grade (e.g. Dynosoar). The Smith guide refers to resting in the chimney after the first crux, but I'm not sure why you would want to do that, especially considering there is a nice resting jug at the same height. For me, to keep the route more sustained and continuous (and not contrived), it seemed like grabbing a quick shake at the jug and then continuing on made for a nicer climb (and probably closer to 13a.) To each his own I guess...no matter how you climb it, it is a really enjoyable route.

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