Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Dirty Crack T 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
White Way Direct T 
Yardarm T 
Unsorted Routes:

Great White Way 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Gerald Laws, Buddy Price 1974!!!
Page Views: 6,603
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The second pitch with the only bolt safely clipped...

Description 

This is the quintessential water groove route at Stone Mountain and like the guide book says...if your heart ain't racing and you ain't having fun...you must be dead.

Start from the very left edge of the Tree Ledge. Look for the second water groove past the Great Arch.

Pitch 1: Climb the water groove on the left side past 2 bolts, then step into the groove and climb past 2 more bolts to the anchor at a stance on the left of the groove. 5.9, 110 feet.

Pitch 2: Ready to get your groove on? Climb up the deepening groove past one bolt to another anchor on the left side of the groove. 5.8, 110 feet.

Pitch 3: Continue up the groove for 50 feet to the trees. 5.6, 50 feet.


Location 

Left edge of the Tree Ledge...second water groove...mmm....goood....


Protection 

Take 4 quickdraws and something for the bolted belays...that is all you will need.



Photos of Great White Way Slideshow Add Photo
Kimberly styles up to the second belay.
Kimberly styles up to the second belay.
110 ft and only 1 bolt and no natural pro! Second time leading it I had to ask myself why do I do this to myself! Then when I was done...I remembered.
110 ft and only 1 bolt and no natural pro! Second ...
Saxfiend leading P2 in chilly conditions.
Saxfiend leading P2 in chilly conditions.
Standing on the dyke at the start of the route. The crux looms above!
Standing on the dyke at the start of the route. Th...
second pitch
second pitch
dad follows... looks fun on that end of the rope...
dad follows... looks fun on that end of the rope.....
Safely into the second bolt above the hard part.
Safely into the second bolt above the hard part.
Pitch 1 on Great White Way, Stone Mountain, NC.
Pitch 1 on Great White Way, Stone Mountain, NC.
Looking down
Looking down
Great White Way follows the amazing dark colored water groove that starts just to the left of the tiny tree on the ledge and leads to a tree island at the top.
Great White Way follows the amazing dark colored w...
one more of dad (ernie)
one more of dad (ernie)
Comments on Great White Way Add Comment
Show which comments
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you're looking for a hair-raising lead, Great White Way definitely fills the bill. I've never had to put as much trust in pure friction and footwork. What an exciting line -- I won't forget this one for a long time! Many thanks to Ben and Jody for letting me lead all three pitches.

More route details, for anyone who's interested:

I thought the hardest moves were at the start, right off the ledge. Fortunately, the first bolt can be clipped from the ledge -- this doesn't make the start any easier, but a lot less scary. The first three bolts are fairly closely spaced, so you probably won't want to get into the groove until you've clipped the third bolt. The fourth bolt -- much higher on the pitch -- is way off to the left and can't be clipped without moving out of the groove onto the face, which is pretty damn stomach-churning considering how run out you are at that point. The same is true of the P1 belay.

The second pitch in the deepening groove is much less tenuous than the first, but still not casual. Lots of runout leading up to the sole bolt, and from that bolt to the belay. Also, this pitch is probably closer to 150'. The third pitch is pretty much of a romp up to the tree island.

As to getting down, if you're there when it's not crowded, you can get away with rapping the route; first double-rope rap is from the rings at the top of P2 of Great Brown Way (a short distance right of the topout), which will get you to the P1 anchors for Great White Way; from there, one more rap brings you back to the tree ledge. However, if there's any chance of other climbers coming up from below, don't do this; instead go up and over the tree island to the Great Arch rap station.

By Br'er Rabbit
From: The Deeper South
Jul 14, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Kudos to JL for the lead...in Winter...in fingerless wool gloves!

By nelsonthad
From: Everett, wa
Mar 4, 2011

1 bolt in 110ft and no R rating? Even on slab a 100-150 ft rag doll would likely cause injury.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Oct 21, 2011

Most/all routes at Stone Mountain have an implied R rating. They also use the running belay technique...ie...leader falls, you run...when possible.