Great White Crime 5.11b
| 3,837 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Bryan Becker 1977 |
| Submitted By: | Brian Milhaupt on May 30, 2003 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the prominant crack in the cente...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Located on the south face of Turkey Rock, this route starts to the right of the bolted arete (In Style, Out of Fashion). This is in the lowpoint of the right side of the rock. Similar climbing to that of Vanishing Point with good fingers in the seams and feet where you need them. Start up incipient cracks until a step left is necessary. Reach for the handcrack, and it's over. It is 70' to a chain anchor.
Protection TCUs, RPs, and #2 Camalot for the upper hand crack.
Steve Samuelson, c. 1995.
|
Stepping left to the handcrack after the crux.
|
Adam Sinner looking for pro on May 17, 2008.
|
Tina enjoying the last lap of the day.
| | |
| Comments on Great White Crime |
|
By Chad Stebbins
Jul 12, 2004
| A larger RP will protect the crux very well, and a slightly larger nut can back this up a couple feet below. Very good climbing, but the difficulty is not sustained. Lots of moves in the 10 range with maybe 2 moves at easier 11. |
By Greaser
Sep 23, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| I have fond memories of climbing this. Great route. To bad it was not a lot longer.
Is Turkey Rocks open now? |
By nolteboy
Oct 9, 2005
rating: 5.11a
| I thought this was easier than VANISHING POINT. Protection is better than it looks from the ground. The purple Metolius TCU is your friend! |
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| This is a great route with good pro as long as you have small cams. Nice balancy moves through the crux, one of the best short climbs I've done in the Platte. |
By chad michael davis
Aug 14, 2006
| You can lead this climb with stoppers only and have gear over your head for nearly every move. The crux in particular, where the climbing is thinnest, takes perfect bottleneck wires. |
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.10c
| Bryan told me it was named this because of the amount of chalk they used. They were mortified by the white mess they had made. Anyhow another example of how priorities have changed in the climbing world. It's a great pitch but it's not 5.11. |
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2009
| This climb is fun - short but sweet - and it absolutely eats nuts and small cams. There are lots of rests/stances to place gear. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Jun 9, 2010
rating: 5.10d
| This is a great climb. It doesn't involve any real crack climbing except at the very end, which therefore fits my style perfectly. There are some great finger locks right before the crux, but sport climbers can handle those easily.
I onsighted R.'s Crack right after I did this climb, and I think I can fairly say there is no way this is an 11b. This climb was more difficult during the hard parts, but I got the rp on my second try, and I am no where near a 5.11 trad climber. |
By Be Esperanza
From: Asheville, NC
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.11-
| One of my favorites! I placed a bomber #2 C4 before the crux sequence. It was just a little below my feet when I grabbed the cool crystal thingy. |
|
RSS Feed
1 more...
Slideshow
