|Stately Pleasure Dome
A long, awkward, wide crack can surprise many 5.6 leaders. Pro is sparse and hard to place, especially if you don't have some huge pieces (5-6 inches), resulting in long runouts. But it's a beautiful long line straight up almost to the top of the dome.
P1 and P2 are pretty straightforward 5.6 and easier climbing. P3 and P4 are the mental crux - try not to get sucked in too deep, keep your feet on the main wall and your back on the right wall. The angle is low, so if you keep upright, it's trivial, but it probably won't feel like it. Don't pass up a place to get in some pro these two pitches - you won't find many. P4 is also poorly protected face climbing, moving left until you hit slabs.
Park beside the dome and lake. The book should be obvious as long as you're not on the extreme east end of the dome.
The biggest pieces you got. A few bolts provided for anchors.
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 26, 2006
Do not traverse left on the last pitch veering up and left across the open unprotected face unless you are a masochist. The unprotected chimneys were casual compared to that damn face. Continue straight up instead.
Sep 12, 2006
A fun 5.6.
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
May 12, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Also the easiest way to get down if you are soloing! Face out on the way down...it sounds scarier than it is.
Dec 5, 2007
In my opinion this is one of the most overrated climbs in Tuolumne. Everyone does it, often as their first real lead, but it's run out and dangerous for inexperienced leaders. There are a half a dozen routes on this rock that are better climbs including: South Crack, Dixie Peach, Hermaphodite Flake, West Country, Table of Contents an others.
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 13, 2008
Great climb. Maybe too much beta in the description? Maybe not - it is a beta page after all. But I'm glad I didn't see this description before climbing the line.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Without big cams you could fall a long, long way on the groove pitch. Found this a lot more frightening than most 5.9s!
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 8, 2009
Yes, big cams are necessary. A few summers ago I sprained my ankle while in the area and was relegated to toproping/seconding climbs close to the road for a few days. My wife chose the Great White Book as a climb to lead me up. At the car I said, "don't you think you should take a couple of big cams." "Oh no," she replied, "I don't want to carry those big, heavy things." Sure enough, we get to the wide corner pitch and none of her cams will fit so she just ran it out the whole pitch. Yikes!
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 12, 2010
at the end of 2 I traversed left under the long mini-roof. I thought there might be protection in there somewhere but there's nothing. I don't recommend that route. continue straight up.
|By Rodger Raubach|
Jul 29, 2012
The first ascent of this route was done considerably earlier by Hope Meek and Jim Baldwin; probably around 1964-1965.
|By Mark P Thomas|
Aug 6, 2012
If you know how to handle basic chimneys & OW, 1 set of cams from #0.3-#6 C4 is enough for plenty secure climbing. Just make sure you realize that this is the real deal for wide climbing and make sure you're familiar with pushing & resetting cams.
Don't get sucked too far in? I climbed all of the wide pitches left side in and went deep inside on the squeeze chimney parts. I was super solid and secure, singing and taking pictures the whole way on lead. Burrow in, just don't get stuck :-)
The last traversing pitch was the only real "R" part of the climb in my opinion (there are many many routes of this wide type in the Valley that do not get an "R" designation but have similar type of 'runouts'). It's not too bad if you lead 5.8 slab, but I did wonder about that more natural, direct line, with pro, leading straight up from the piton to the end . . .
|By Matt N|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Aug 6, 2013
Run your 60m out to combine Supertopo's P1/P2.
Older Camalots (4.5 red and 5 green) worked fine for P2 - just place and go, don't bother bumping; that makes it harder. Full, single set of cams is plenty.
Wandering left across the final slabs was heady-er than the book runouts, but all there with a few variations available.
FUN 5.6 that gets you breathing hard.
|By Clint Cummins|
From: Palo Alto, CA
Aug 6, 2014
First ascent: Hope Morehouse, Jim Baldwin, and Jeff Foott, 1962