Great Roof Right
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BETA PHOTO: Great Roof Right passes the big roof on the right ...
Near the left side of the cliff at Sugarite is a gigantic roof. The crack that passes the left side of the roof is the classic Great Roof Left
. Less classic but still fun is the crack that passes the right side. Start up a huge flake that goes easy but unprotected (unless you have a #6 camalot or some big bros) to some dodgy-looking but solid blocks just below the roof. Get some good pro in at the edge of the roof and pull some strenuous jamming and laybacking up around the roof to easier and fun hand jamming to the top. Heavy amounts of lichen on the left side of the crack keep the foot placements interesting to the top.
It's a fun route but not very consistent. Easy climbing to the roof, a tough move around the roof and then easier climbing above. Still worth doing, though.
FA info would be greatly appreciated. Also, suggested rating info would be nice too. The 5.10a rating is just our guess since we haven't seen anything published about this route. The move around the roof is definitely more challenging than any single move on Great Roof Left
but overall the route is much less sustained.
Near the far left side of the wall.
BD cams... .5, .75, 2x #2, 2x #3 and some gear for the anchor (good anchor gear is a #4 and a #3.)