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Sundance Buttress
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Great Roof Bypass 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Erickson & Luke Studer
Page Views: 712
Submitted By: Erik Corkran on Jan 1, 2001

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Description 

Yet another time I planned to climb Kor's Flake and there were too many people on it. The route we did appears to be a variation of what I have seen in most guidebooks.

(1) Climb the first pitch of Kor's Flake (I always climb through the "hole" but not for any particular reason).

(2) Start up the second pitch of Kor's Flake but break right to a black and slightly bulging dihedral. I think that the normal route continues up Kor's Flake and avoids this. Dihedral felt 5.9, though I had not done too many 5.9 trad leads at the time, so could be 5.8+. It seems like we belayed after the black dihedral.

(3) The dihedral continues but is very dirty, head up and left instead (heading for a flake at the left edge of a big roof). The flake is big and hollow/scary, but leads to the best part of the climb. Do a "squeeze chimney traverse" to the right under/inside the big roof. I managed to fit through after much wiggling. My partner was convinced he couldn't fit but he finally did. If you are over about 190 lbs you probably will not fit. Continue to the dihedral at the right edge of the roof (I placed a large cam on a big runner before pulling onto the wall) and pull over to the right on (mostly) good holds, with good gear (large stoppers). The route continues to the saddle though I don't remember exact details. Difficulty decreased after the pull around the roof mentioned above.

I was going to give the route a star for the roof traverse and pull over the dihedral. I really enjoyed this pitch, but I figured that many people wouldn't so I left the star off.

Protection 

Standard rack, I used one large cam in addition (seems like I always have one).


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By s.kimball
Jun 10, 2009

Not a bad route especially if started on Banana Peels.The 2nd pitches black LF dihedral, hand and finger is worthy and 5.9.Manuvering under the Great Roof on pitch 3 is pretty exciting. If you strike out left on pitch 4 you will find a great moderate pitch.