Great Ripoff, The
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Just right of Schoolroom Direct Start is a tree filled crack. Climb this crack (a bit dirty), until you can reach the right-slanting thin crack above the pine tree. This crack is where the fun begins. Work up the progressively better rock using this crack until it ends, then step over and left, and follow the two bolts up the steep face to a right-trending groove, which is followed to the ledge system/belay station for Schoolroom pitch 2. 5.10b No! Granted I wasn't wearing my proper shoes for this type of climb, but that face is thin and IMHO harder than 5.10b. This compared more to Cheetah, or Punany for difficulty. It is a shorter sequence than those other two routes but just as difficult. Bring tough finger tips, good shoes, and as evidenced by the bail gear on bolt 2, bring a head willing to work through a tough sequence.
2 draws for the bolts, and a standard rack would work for the rest.
By Nathan Fisher
Sep 14, 2005
Alright, I'll go back to 5.10b on this one, now that I have got my shoes patched and got the lead successfully. The crack/flake gobbles up gear, but after the 2nd bolt it gets a wee bit runout.Deal with it.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 16, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
All our gear was stolen from the base when we put this route up. Its a bit run after the second both due to no stances left to drill on the lead.