Great Race 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Dixon, Mosher |
| Submitted By: | EricT on Feb 5, 2006 |
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Dennis climbs a familiar line.
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Description Great Race is on the right wall of the 3rd class gully and is a great sporty vertical line. Steep, slabby (is that an oxymoron?) moves down low give way to buckets higher up.
Protection Good bolts to a bolted anchor. Descend via rapping or going down the gully. For toproping, it is preferable to use the bolts at the top of the arete, not the pair at the back of the ledge (to prevent swinging into the trees).
Update: The two-bolt anchor out on the arete was replaced in 2007 and consists of two 1/2" x 4" wedge-bolts with rings.
Alex Tuttle seeks enlightenment on "the Great Race...
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 16, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| This route was pretty fun. The first clip is in a good spot - for a climb that does not start on top of a ledge. If you feel uncomfortable throw a cam in at your feet so you do not slide off the ledge should you miss the first clip. If your belayer is up there with you, a tree anchor may suffice to make you both feel safe. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
May 20, 2009
| Falling between the first and second bolts is not advised. This section has been the sight of a few sprained ankles. |
By Brian Paden
From: Goleta CA
Sep 24, 2010
| Unusually well bolted sport route in a trad area. Excellent quality rock! |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 24, 2010
| Continues to be one of my favorite all-time routes in SB. |
By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 12, 2011
| How do most people get above the first bolt, start directly below the bolt and 'traverse left, up, then back right', or 'go straight up' (looks really hard), or 'start on the left go up then right' (much easier)? Even with the easy start, it still felt 10a. |
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.10a
| Way I went: Start directly below the bolt, clip, foot traverse left (10a / b?), up, then right to clip second bolt then .9+/10a move right. |
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