It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.
There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.
Thanks to ri.
for the contribution.
Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.
Climbing Season For the Acadia National Park area.
Weather station 11.8 miles from here
15 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Great Head
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Great Head
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Great Head:
Featured Route For Great Head
Dragon Fish 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c ME
: Acadia National Park
: ... : The Cavern
Was project X3 in Jeff's book.The start is the crux. Bouldery moves on sea polished crimps go into radically steep fins and underclings. Continue bouldering out a body length horizontal roof on a stalactite tooth feature; very strange (V8ish?). After moving through the sea polished roof and statactite, climb through an amazing pocket covered face on a slightly overhanging wall to a another roof. Boulder through this roof into a technical corner. Hang on to the top. Absolutely amazing. ...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
Feb 26, 2008
From the center of Bar Harbor follow rt 3 south for about a mile. Take a left onto Schooner Head Road. Follow straight to parking lot. From parking lot take the Great Head trail to cliff.
By Blake Cash
Mar 2, 2008
Actually...there are now 3 bolted lines in the cavern. one on the right side which goes at 12d, one to the right of transatlantic which is 13b-ish and then transatlantic itself which is 2 pitches and goes at 13a with a first 10a pitch on gear.
May 5, 2012
So much more potential at this cliff.