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DescriptionIt has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience. Getting ThereArea on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs! The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Great Head:
Morning Glory 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Morning Glory Alcove
Black watch 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Morning Glory Alcove
Head Arete 5.10+ PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Left wall
Corsair 5.11a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Morning Glory Alcove
When Six Changes To Nine 5.11b/c R Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Cavern
Tiger Shark 5.11c TR, 100 feet Left wall
Highlander 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Morning Glory Alcove
The FishScale 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Cavern
24 Hour Crack 5.13a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Left wall
Thicker Than Water 5.13b R Trad, 2 pitches, 50 feet The Cavern
Dragon Fish 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet The Cavern
Featured Route For Great Head
The FishScale 5.12d ME : Acadia National Park : ... : The Cavern
Rappel in with a fixed line to a belay. Then climb the obvious and radically steep prow. Amazing boulder problem to start then endurance and tech to the top. Hands down one of the most amazing hard 5.12's in New England!!!Was Project X4 in Jeff's Guide.Warning: You need a low-tide or small surf. Fix a line and know how to jug before attempting. Slightly scary. Hard....[more] Browse More Classics in ME
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