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Cavern, The 
Left wall 
Morning Glory Alcove 

Great Head 


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Administrators: Ladd Raine, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007

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Great Head

Description 

It has to be low tide to get to the cave section. It is about a mile walk though and while a majority of the climbing is 5.11 + there is a classic 5.9 (now possibly 5.10 due to a broken hold (trad/toprope)). If you can stand the walk in and are willing to climb hard trad or TR, you can beat the crowds and still get the perfect Acadia experience.

There are also some much harder climbs in the 5.13 range if you are feeling really strong.

Thanks to ri. for the contribution.


Getting There 

Area on your left(north) when at Otter Cliffs. Stop Before You Get to Otter Cliffs!
Cliffs will be oceanside of road.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Great Head:
Morning Glory   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Morning Glory Alcove
Black watch   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Morning Glory Alcove
Head Arete   5.10+ PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Left wall
Corsair   5.11a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Morning Glory Alcove
When Six Changes To Nine   5.11b/c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Cavern
Tiger Shark   5.11c     TR, 100 feet   Left wall
Highlander   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Morning Glory Alcove
The FishScale   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Cavern
24 Hour Crack   5.13a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Left wall
Thicker Than Water   5.13b R     Trad, 2 pitches, 50 feet   The Cavern
Dragon Fish   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   The Cavern
Browse More Classics in Great Head

Featured Route For Great Head
scary clip after the crux <br />Photo by Dave Sharratt

The FishScale 5.12d  ME : Acadia National Park : ... : The Cavern
Rappel in with a fixed line to a belay. Then climb the obvious and radically steep prow. Amazing boulder problem to start then endurance and tech to the top. Hands down one of the most amazing hard 5.12's in New England!!!Was Project X4 in Jeff's Guide.Warning: You need a low-tide or small surf. Fix a line and know how to jug before attempting. Slightly scary. Hard....[more]   Browse More Classics in ME


Comments on Great Head Add Comment
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By nickv
Feb 26, 2008

From the center of Bar Harbor follow rt 3 south for about a mile. Take a left onto Schooner Head Road. Follow straight to parking lot. From parking lot take the Great Head trail to cliff.

By Blake Cash
Mar 2, 2008

Actually...there are now 3 bolted lines in the cavern. one on the right side which goes at 12d, one to the right of transatlantic which is 13b-ish and then transatlantic itself which is 2 pitches and goes at 13a with a first 10a pitch on gear.

By Echoinfi
May 5, 2012

So much more potential at this cliff.