|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Kurtz on Aug 27, 2012|
|Comments on Great Expectations||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Aug 27, 2012
I love this climb (on toprope). An attentive belayer is helpful because they'll constantly be adjusting slack. You can vary the route quite a bit to suit your mood (you can even do the Tiptoe start).
I led 75% of it once and yelled for a rope when I realized that I was at the crux 20 feet above and 10 feet right of my last tiny nut with 20 feet more to go. Even if the nut held, the fall would have been horrendous. Once I clipped into the rope, the fear dissipated like magic.
If you want to lead it with a bit of safety margin, drop a rope from the metal rail with loops tied into it every 4 feet. A bit cowardly, I admit.
By George Maynard
Jun 25, 2013
|A great lead. My climbing partner who is notorious for sandbagging me into climbs told me to climb this. I swear i heard, ''It's only 5.6 R'' R being rrreally fun. I got to the crux downclimbed, put in more gear, kept telling myself it was only 5.6 and went to the top. I don't recommend falling on this one.|
By greg t
From: Chevy, Silverado
Dec 17, 2015
|George, if you don't lead it, then how else would Ryan's rope get up there?|