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Lorne placing a chock before moving to the right ...
Great Expectations is the dihedral/roof to the right of Exacerbation, It starts in the shallow crack leading up to the tiny ledge from wich you clip the first bolt (to the right) The crux is getting from the bolt to the dihedral and requires balance and footwork, once in the dihedral (which takes chocks very nicely!) layback until you are nearly at the roof. The route goes up and around the right of the roof and tops out to the right of the tree at the top.
The route just to the right of exacerbation (the bolted arete on the left)
After the one bolt at the crux some larger chocks or smallish cams are required to protect the crack in the dihedral.
By Brock Wilson
Jul 2, 2010
I'm not a Harrison climber, but shouldn't the description be to head around left of the roof? Or is there at least a variation that goes out left?
Jul 5, 2010
Some climbers will traverse left to the chains for a slightly harder finish.
Jun 21, 2011
| Here is a photo I shot of Lisel Petersen climbing the route out to the left. 10+ codytuttle.com
Here I a shot I took of Lisel Petersen climbing the roof out to the left. When I climbed it I felt it was 10+ maybe 11 for the shorter folk. codytuttle.com