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Shanahan Crag
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Beau! 
Better Offer 
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Identity Theft 
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South Face 
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Southeast Ridge, North Crag 
When It's Right 

Great Expectations 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
FA: Julie Garrison, Dougald MacDonald
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 135
Submitted By: Dougald MacDonald on Mar 8, 2003
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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

With some traffic this will become a much better route, but for now it's a bit .... adventurous. This route climbs the pretty huecoed face just left of Identity Theft (the line marked in Rossiter's guide as the "South Face"). Both pitches are 5.8/5.9.

P1. Start in an obvious left-facing corner and climb easily to the roof, then do cool moves left under the roof and stand up at the far end. Angle left across huecos and neat underclings (Tri-Cams useful for pro), then up to easier ground on a faint prow. From here, either keep going a few feet left into a nice left-facing corner (easier and better protected), or tackle the steep wall above via faint double cracks (good climbing but the cracks are discontinuous, a bit dirty and difficult to protect). Belay at a small ledge by a large old nest.

Pitch 2: Angle right over an easy bulge to a stance, then climb steep rock via discontinuous double cracks to reach the top. Adequate but not great pro. (As with the first pitch, the pro will improve if the cracks get more traffic.)

Descent: Downclimb about 75 feet of low 5th class to a ledge with a rap anchor (125-foot rappel), or climb to the summit.


Protection 

Standard rack plus Tri-Cams.



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