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Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Analysis Paralysis T 
Booby Trap T 
Bullet T 
Cleft, The T 
Dodging the Bullet T 
East Ridge 
Englishman's Route 
Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 
Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T 
Left of Cleft 
Ms. Inferno T 
North Face Direct 
Slit, The T 
Tyndall Gully 
Unsorted Routes:

Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress 

M4-5

   
Type:  Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original: M4-5 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter
Page Views: 2,855
Submitted By: Kevin Landolt on Dec 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Near the end of P1 on Great Dihedral.

Description 

Nothing new here - people have been climbing Hallett's rock routes in winter for a long time. I found that Great Dihedral to Standard Route makes for an excellent mixed climb. The climbing is never desperate but is sustained and of high quality.

Notes:

Snow slopes at the base of the route can be avy prone.

A potentially dangerous cornice forms above the exit on Standard Route, and some tunneling is required to gain the summit ridge.

This route is not conditions dependent and makes for a great mid-winter climb.

Location 

This is the obvious dihedral on the First Buttress.

Protection 

A set of cams to 3 inches, hexes to BD #11, stoppers, pins, and Spectres.


Photos of Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Erickson leading the second pitch on a storm...
Chris Erickson leading the second pitch on a storm...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris following up the first pitch.
Chris following up the first pitch.

Comments on Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Killgore
From: boulder, co
Jan 10, 2011

Only climbed the 1st pitch. There is a pretty tenuous move after pulling the small roof. A green C3 goes in, but probably best not to test it.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Aug 3, 2014

Superb mixed climbing. No pins needed. A purple TCU is nice to have on the first pitch, otherwise kind of runout. One to do again and again.
By Justin S
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 10, 2016

Used a single rack with doubles 0.75 to 2. Linking the 1st and 2nd pitches with a 70 (maybe a 60?) is the way to go. With a pitch of unroped climbing in the gully splitting the dyhedral and upper buttress, you can climb this rig in four ~60m rope stretching pitches (2 on the dyhedral and 2 on the upper buttress). Never thought it was run out, but I did think it was awesome ... a spectacular mixed route!
By Jonathan White
From: littleton, co
Mar 7, 2016

Someone added 2 pins at the top of pitch 2.

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