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Southern Pillar
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Great Chimney 

YDS: 5.1 French: 2 Ewbanks: 6 UIAA: II British: MD 2a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 265'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Mark Carpenter, Tal Bielefeldt 1965
Page Views: 379
Submitted By: Peter Jackson on Aug 11, 2010
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Description 

150 foot pitch 1 to a belay ledge, then 115 feet to the top.


Location 

Begin at the large chimney that splits the formation in the WEST and EAST buttresses.


Protection 

No bolts. Bring a good trad rack.



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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a PG13

I don't know if the person who submitted this actually climbed this or not but it's not 5.1...not by a long shot. This is adventure climbing at it's finest. Here's a real description:

P1: Climb a short, blocky wall in the large chimney/gulley. Move up through some turfy ledges with just enough rock sticking out, placing gear wherever you can get it, mostly on the side walls. Continue up to a tree with some slings on it. OPTIONAL BELAY.

Continuing up, move up a dirt slope passing two more good sized trees and gain the main chimney below a large boulder stuck above you in the chimney. Pass under the boulder and continue up using cracks in the back wall and chimney moves. Work your way up through the blocky upper portion to a large ledge on the left. Around the corner is Mrs. Robinson and a host of other decent climbs.

P2: Continue up through the blocky gully to the top. The 2nd pitch gets a bit more overgrown but just a short ways up the pitch are two good climbs on the right wall: Craving For Pink and Hidden Gem.

You will find yourself stemming a lot and using some decent chimney moves on this climb. I'd almost give it an "R" rating...there are certainly some 'do not fall' areas where it be a long, tumbling ride. Bottom line: this is not a 5.1 and not a climb for beginners.