Great Chimney Route
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This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100’ & 140’.
P1 – 5.8 – Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125’ to a ledge.
P2 – 5.9- - Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.
P3 – Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.
P4 – Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.
The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose
route and the big, tree filled gully.
Gear to 6".