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The Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 crack climb T 
Betterman T 
Camel Walk, The T 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 T 
Dalke - Jennings T 
Dewitt Route T 
Dungeon, The T 
Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
Wiggins Route T 
Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

Great Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013

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Description 

This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100 & 140.

P1 5.8 Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125 to a ledge.

P2 5.9- - Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.

P3 Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.

P4 Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.


Location 

The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose route and the big, tree filled gully.


Protection 

Gear to 6".



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