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The Castle
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5.9 crack climb 
Camel Walk, The 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 
Dalke - Jennings 
Dewitt Route 
Dungeon, The 
Great Chimney Route 
Hardgumbi's Lament 
Nose, The 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route 
Southeast Gully 
Throne Room 
Uncle Wiggly 
Wiggins Route 
You Can't Chop This 

Great Chimney Route 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 15, 2013
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This route ascends the cleft between the two big chunks of the Castle itself. Look for a big chimney feature in a right facing flake feature directly below some blocky roofs. All pitches are between 100 & 140.

P1 5.8 Chimney your way up miscellaneous stuff for about 125 to a ledge.

P2 5.9- - Follow the main corner/cracks up and slightly leftwards to a belay ledge.

P3 Head up & right across the main chimney system to more a more appealing looking crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right side (crux) and then up to a belay.

P4 Head left towards a right-facing corner and then up a crack system to the final slabs.


The major chimney system that splits the main crag halfway between The Nose route and the big, tree filled gully.


Gear to 6".

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