Great article on helmet use
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No-Brainer? Why Do So Many Climbers Not Wear Helmets?
I've seen the results of a lot of climbing accidents. Macdonald is spot on in my experience with frequency and severity of head injuries. Climbers are way more likely to suffer leg injuries than head injuries, but head injuries are potentially serious or fatal. Some climbing accidents just aren't survivable. I wear a helmet when I use a rope outdoors. I don't climb in gyms much, and I don't wear a helmet bouldering. I use the Climb High 360 helmet because of its claimed increased safety. What could climbers do to encourage development of practical, more protective helmets? Any experts out there on head injuries or helmet design? |
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My problem is that I have a smallish head, and want a helmet that I can wear on sport that will give more side/back impact protection in addition to the rock/pro fall protection of my current helmet (BD Half Dome size sm, currently only used for trad). I've tried on the Meteor III and other one-size-fits-all helmets that tote a good rep for protecting the sides and back, but they don't cut it. Too loose and clunky. |
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Jon Zucco wrote: Anyone have any ideas for a low profile, fitted helmet that would protect all sides?Not sure how well it protects the sides, but its supposed to be the lowest profile helmet out so far blackdiamondequipment.com/e… also ultralight and expensive |
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Matt N wrote: Not sure how well it protects the sides, but its supposed to be the lowest profile helmet out so far blackdiamondequipment.com/e… also ultralight and expensiveThanks! Yeah, I've had my eye on this one, but they must be super popular because I've yet to find a size s/m to try on in a shop since I found out about them. I might just end up ordering online and returning if it doesn't work out. |
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As far as encouraging development, I think part of the problem might be that climbers who value head protection are already buying helmets. The as-yet-uncaptured market is the group of climbers who don't currently buy helmets - because they are too heavy, hot, ugly, etc. - and so I'm guessing we'll continue to see new helmet designs aiming at being lighter, more comfy, and minimalistic. |
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Bump / encourage all to read the whole article, including the comments on Climbing.com. Em Cos is on to something in terms of the potential market & the social aspects of the climbing scene. There are some documented studies in other fields where preventative measures appear to encourage such a large increase in risky behavior that those taking the preventative measure as a group suffer the adverse outcome more often than those who don't. |
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I'm kind of tired of articles waxing poetically about wearing helmets to prevent fall related head injuries when the market does not provide adequate solutions. Not to pick on the OP, but take a look at your profile photo: see how high the helmet sits? and how little of it covers the side & back of your head? You really think that's going to do a lot of good? |
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reboot wrote:I recently bought a Petzl Meteor 3+, one of the new gen foam helmet supposedly good for that purpose. Although it's rated for biking as well, I wouldn't feel very comfortable using it biking, neither would I have a lot of confidence in it in the event of a fall: the helmet just doesn't fit that well & it still doesn't cover the sides & back enough. As far as the fit goes, bike helmets come in all different shapes and typically 4 sizes. How do we suppose we can make climbing helmets in a few models and at most 2 sizes that'll cover most climbers?? .This is exactly the problem I've encountered whilst searching for a sport helmet. My BD Half Dome is adequate for multi pitch trad situations where rock fall is a concern, but I leave it at home otherwise. I read the article, and I realize that rock fall is a potential at the crags as well. But really, I need something that actually fits, is comfortable, and will protect in a fall and against falling objects. Nothing I've seen/tried so far seems to cut it for me. If there were something out there that did those things, I wouldn't mind forking out $150-$200 at all, and I would wear it habitually. But that product doesn't seem to exist for my head type/size. I imagine that the reason why cycling helmets come in such a wide variety of quality, fits, and sizes is that there are vastly more cyclists out there buying helmets, thus driving the cycling helment market. I fear we are destined for the One/Two Size(s) Fit All garbage for a while longer until wearing helmets while climbing becomes more popular and people actually start demanding better products. |
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while fit is a problem ... its more of an habituation problem IMO ... you have to get used to wearing a helmet like anything else |
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On helmets and safety, judgment is probably your number one protection. Cutting teeth climbing in the old days where it was only "cool" to maybe wear a helmet on ice climbs and doing big routes, it felt weird to don one most of the time. However, if you log enough mileage, you'll figure out that it only takes a moment of inattention to a slippery hold, rope around the leg the wrong way, gravity winning on some block of rock, or someone else doing something inadvertent, that you realize the odds may/will catch up to you. Having seen enough head injured folks in a medical setting, I'd recommend climbing with a helmet as your default and needing to find reasons not as your choice. |
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This is the equestrian world's answer to the ill-fitting, don't cover enough, too-hot, too-high-profile helmets that we all couldn't stand. I imagine it's not made for the length of fall that a climber has the potential to take, but it's made for a sport in which the rider is sometimes launched pretty violently through the air, may hit any number of fixed objects on the way down, and may even have to contend with steel-shod hooves making impact. |
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Helmets aren't necessary in every situation. |
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Go to the park. Count how many kids on tricycles are wearing helmets. It'll be almost all of them. These kids are lower to the ground than when walking and going slower, yet they "need" helmets. |
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Since I can precisely predict the exact moment: |
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The only valid reason not to a wear a helmet is that they can be hot and uncomfortable. I used to think it was only necessary when climbing multipitch trad. Then my buddy got whacked in the chest with a fist sized rock while sport climbing at a popular crag in Boulder Canyon. I was standing right next to him without a helmet. That rock would have definitely caused a serious concussion if not worse. You don't make a judgement call when to use a seat belt because an accident can occur at any time, helmets should be viewed the same. |
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Vaughne wrote:The only valid reason not to a wear a helmet is that they can be hot and uncomfortable. I used to think it was only necessary when climbing multipitch trad. Then my buddy got whacked in the chest with a fist sized rock while sport climbing at a popular crag in Boulder Canyon. I was standing right next to him without a helmet. That rock would have definitely caused a serious concussion if not worse. You don't make a judgement call when to use a seat belt because an accident can occur at any time, helmets should be viewed the same.So where do we purchase chest protectors for climbing? |
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nicelegs wrote: So where do we purchase chest protectors for climbing?Are there UIAA certified jock straps? My balls feel very exposed when climbing. |
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reboot wrote: Are there UIAA certified jock straps? My balls feel very exposed when climbing.I don't know how they could. |
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Brigette wrote:I imagine it's not made for the length of fall that a climber has the potential to takeNeither are climbing helmets. I'm beginning to think if I decide to wear a helmet for fall reasons, most of the alternatives from other sports would be superior. |
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nicelegs wrote: So where do we purchase chest protectors for climbing?If you have a helmet, you can use it like a shield and block any rockfall headed for your chest or balls. Duh. |
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Greg D wrote:Since I can precisely predict the exact moment: that rock fall will occur and dropped gear is about to occur and I'm gonna get flipped upside down and A random hold on an otherwise clean sport wall will break and My foot is gonna pop off, I put my helmet on just before the incident. Climbing is so predictable.Thank you, Greg. Well said. Anyone who doesn't want to be bound by some "assinine" "arbitrary" "rule", you are welcome to make your own choices. I don't mind a little thinning of the gene pool. |