Greasy Gizzards  5.10 R

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  Dave Baker, Mike Mcewan, KJ Submitted By:  Jonathan Clark on Jan 7, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Grasy Gizzards 5.10R

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Description 

This route sees little to no traffic. It has seen perhaps only a handful of ascents. The second pitch is quite good, however it is extremely runout.

p1-Make a few heads up moves off the ledge to gain the crack. Jam hands and fists with the occassional chimney/OW manuver to a gear belay. This is not a particularly spectacular pitch. (5.9)

p2-Continue up the the thinning crack until its end. Build a nest of nuts and gather your wits as you are about to cast off into the twilight zone where you will encounter multiple cruxes with absolutely zero gear. Traverse right via delicate and balancey moves toward the water streak. From the water streak head straight up for another 15 feet until you reach hero plates and jugs. The runout is in the 35-40 foot range. (5.10)

p3-A short scramble to the summit or traverse over to the second pitch Beeline anchor (assuming you already know where that is). Two ropes are needed for the rappel.

Location 

The discontinuous crack system to the left of Shake N' Bake on the south face Stronghold Dome.

Protection 

Standard rack up to 3 inches. Be sure to bring some small to medium nuts as well as some thin slings.