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Y Crack 

Greasy but Groovy 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 800'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ricky Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, and John Long, 1974
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007
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Description 

Along with Shaky Flakes, Greasy but Groovy was a milestone in its day. The crux sections are crowded into the third and fourth pitches. The upper pitches are reminiscent of Tulomne routes -- run out 5.9!

I did this route in the early 1990s with Paul Horak, one of the best face climbers I have ever shared a rope with. Although the guidebooks give this route an R/X rating, I don't recall any anxious moments. Obviously, this is not a route for the faint hearted, but if you are confident on 5.11 face -- as were the first ascenders -- then the you can run up the run outs.


Location 

Finding the base can be a challenge. The key is to locate the easy ramp of the first pitch of Reefer Madness, then move down and right until you locate a line of bolts.


Protection 

Some thin gear to supplement the quick draws is a good idea.



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