Greasy but Groovy  5.10d R

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Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 800 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Ricky Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, and John Long, 1974 Submitted By:  Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Along with Shaky Flakes, Greasy but Groovy was a milestone in its day. The crux sections are crowded into the third and fourth pitches. The upper pitches are reminiscent of Tulomne routes -- run out 5.9!

I did this route in the early 1990s with Paul Horak, one of the best face climbers I have ever shared a rope with. Although the guidebooks give this route an R/X rating, I don't recall any anxious moments. Obviously, this is not a route for the faint hearted, but if you are confident on 5.11 face -- as were the first ascenders -- then the you can run up the run outs.

Location 

Finding the base can be a challenge. The key is to locate the easy ramp of the first pitch of Reefer Madness, then move down and right until you locate a line of bolts.

Protection 

Some thin gear to supplement the quick draws is a good idea.