Greasy Bastard Cluster-Crux
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Tom Davidock, Christian Davidock |
Page Views: | 749 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | tdavidock on Jun 7, 2011 |
Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Description
This is a very pumpy one pitch climb that doesn't provide many rest opportunities due to the negative tilt to the wall. Start at the far south corner of the crag and work the dihedral up to the small ledge just to the left of the face. Transition out from here onto the face and climb up the center of the two crack system. Handholds are limited, but all there. Continue up about 10 feet, using a left hand side-pull around the corner and a pointy flake on right (crux). After moving through crux, continue up another 10 feet and traverse right towards base of chimney. Continue up and through chimney to walk off (top rope can be set with gear and long webbing/cordelette). Be careful of loose rocks.
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