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Port Clinton Crag
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Greasy Bastard Cluster-Crux T,TR 

Greasy Bastard Cluster-Crux 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Davidock, Christian Davidock
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 298
Submitted By: tdavidock on Jun 7, 2011

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Greasy Bastard Cluster-Crux

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Description 

This is a very pumpy one pitch climb that doesn't provide many rest opportunities due to the negative tilt to the wall. Start at the far south corner of the crag and work the dihedral up to the small ledge just to the left of the face. Transition out from here onto the face and climb up the center of the two crack system. Handholds are limited, but all there. Continue up about 10 feet, using a left hand side-pull around the corner and a pointy flake on right (crux). After moving through crux, continue up another 10 feet and traverse right towards base of chimney. Continue up and through chimney to walk off (top rope can be set with gear and long webbing/cordelette). Be careful of loose rocks.

Location 

Start at the far south corner of the crag

Protection 

Protection is all there, although difficult to place with limited rest positions. Set of C4s up to #2 and medium sized stoppers should suffice. Red C3 was all useful for pro before the traverse.


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