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Grease & Grime Wall
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Grease & Grime S 

Grease & Grime 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: bmdhacks on Aug 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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View from the top of Grease & Grime

Description 

Start on a set of shallow ledges up a darker section of the rock. Not terribly steep climbing for the grade, apart from a single bulge to pull over.

Location 

Up a black streak, currently the only route on the Grease & Grime Wall. See the area description for directions.

Protection 

11 bolts plus chains


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By dbrown
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought that this route was a really fun climb and not loose at all. Didn't experience any of the negative experiences of the OP. A great climb of Jason's.
By bmdhacks
Sep 20, 2012

Ok, I took the warning out of the description. Just a note that around the time of this comment, I pulled off four or five huge holds and feet. A major hold on the roof pull was loose, and the light colored rock at the top was quite chossy. However, I'm 6' 2" at 195lbs so that could be a contributing factor.
By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 25, 2013

Definitely choss. The endorsement in the guidebook "possibly one of the best 10b's anywhere" is laughable.
By drock3
Sep 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Found a good amount of bad rock on this route. I'd say it's mostly slab-paddling with 4 feet of climbing. Definitely not a classic as the books suggests.
By James Hicks
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Not sure about the choss comments. I didn't notice much at all. If you get much out of the bolt line I could see it possibly getting a bit chossy. Its a bit mossy down low but other than that it was a super fun route. Nice and airy feeling for the last few bolts. Not sustained really, but we really enjoyed the route. And calling this a 5.9 is just a sandbag comment. The moves to get around the roof/bulge are solid 10b for Maple.

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