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Pinhead Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
'11 Is Out '12 Is In.  S 
Arterial Flow S 
Critics Choice S 
Energy Crisis T 
Face Of A Dictator S 
Fatmando S 
Gearhead T 
Go Speed Racer S 
Gray Matter S 
Grecian Corner S 
Griffy's Wild Ride S 
Hairy Interlude T 
Just For Men S 
Needle Noggin S 
Pinelope Cruise S 
Pinhead Crack T 
Shelf Life S 
Unfinished Sympathy T 
Zerbina S 
Zippy S 

Gray Matter 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JSt, Doug Cornick, EFR,'11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 11, 2012

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EFR using his grey matter at the crux.

Description 

Tricky and hard moves lead to a big ledge. Above it gets hard again and finishes with a fun traverse to the right. At this point as with many routes at newly developed walls You can expect bits and pieces to fall off while climbing and lowering off.

Location 

Starts just before the step up that leads to the start of Gearhead as well as the left end of the wall. Start is below a big roof with a corner chimney on the left (Gearhead). Starts by climbing thin right facing corner to larger left angling stepped corner.

Protection 

Bolts


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Jim on the FA
Jim on the FA

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By Jimbo
Feb 14, 2012

Limited consensus so far is this route is harder than 11 Is Out 12 Is In.

Regardless it is one of the best lines on the wall.