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Cyclops Rock
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Goldilocks T 
Gray Cell Green S 
I, The T 
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New Year's Day T 
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Gray Cell Green 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Don Wilson and Todd Gordon, February 1992
Page Views: 867
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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ATS checking out the middle moves of Gray Cell Gre...

Description 

On the southwest face of Cyclops Rock, about 40' right of the start for The Official Route Of The 1984 Olympics (5.10c), is this route. The climb is easily identified as starting out of a recessed area of rock that is overhanging.

Boulder up the start until possible to clip the first bolt then work your way left to clip a second bolt. Good footwork will make the somewhat crimpy moves to the third bolt easier. Climb past a fixed pin and finish up with easier moves via a short hand crack onto a ledge with anchors.

A short route that is decent enough worth doing if in the area. Originally there was another fixed pin before the first bolt - it may be possible to get a small (0.5")piece in if necessary. Aditionally one can get a 2.5" piece in the crack section at the top if needed. The hard moves and the bulk of the climbing are well protected and it has an anchor- so I'd call it a sport route. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

3 bolts, 1 fixed pin, bolted anchor/rap


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By Steven Powers
Oct 1, 2002

5/16 bolts have been replaced with 5 piece 3/8's rawls and the piton is gone with a bolt in place there are also three bolts on the anchor now its safe for the bolt clipping sport climbing gym rats.
By Josh Beck
Jan 8, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

That's about what it felt like to me... I don't frequently onsight 5.11 and this one came relatively easily. Then several weeks later, feeling stronger, I had a very poor showing on Jane's Addiction :)
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 24, 2004

The name comes from a song on Ned's Atomic Dustbin 1991 release God Fodder.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 16, 2006
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

From the bolted belay, continue up the route New Year's Day, 5.10c bolted, to gain the summit.