Gravity's Rainbow  5.11 A1

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Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200 feet Consensus:  5.11 A1 [details] FA:  L. Ellison, H. Armantrout, 1982 Submitted By:  mountainsense on Nov 8, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

struggling to make progress

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Description 

Gravity's Rainbow begins in a right-arching hand crack that quickly widens to OW, then into an awkward squeeze. Savor the "Little Cottonwood Lean" as you move out of the maw, then onto the wafer-thin flake above. Traverse right along the splitter, undercling flake to a two-bolt anchor. From the belay, climb past a mahogany and to a finger crack leading up to an overlap. Surmount the bulge by aiding off of the antique 1/4" bolt on the slab above; undercling-lieback the right-angling corner--the rock quality really begins to degrade here--and into a small alcove. The Ruckman topo shows the line traversing off of the slab to the right; however, it is also possible to climb directly out of the gritty alcove to the rappel tree--a small, uninspiring mahogany tree adorned by faded tat.

Protection 

Bring along a standard LCC rack up to 4" for the first pitch, doubles are not necessary, but may prove useful--long slings are a must for the second pitch to reduce rope drag.

Location 

Gravity's Rainbow begins 15 feet to the left of the start to Boomerang.

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the fun flake post hell session

knee pads are advised