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 ADVANCED
Upper Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace Of Spades T,TR 
Advanced Rockcraft S 
Cardinal Richelieu T 
Cruise, The T 
Downstairs T 
Gravity's Angel S 
Heavy Weather T 
Martyr's Arena T 
Sunrider S,TR 
Through and Through T 
Twilight T 
Twilight Variation T 
Upstairs T 

Gravity's Angel 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Johnson and Archer, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,299
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Directly below Sunrider and behind the trees are two good starting pitches separated by a large flake that has been augered into the ground. The left is Gravity's Angel, a clip-up with an optional cam placement at 20 feet. Follow a clean, vertical face to a small roof that is dodged on it's right. Belay at the tree. The tree serves as the pivot point to launch an approach to Sunrider via the crux pitch of Heavy Weather on the left or low fifth class on the right. It also can be used to hang the draws on Advanced Rockcraft. Clean stone, crisp edges, and a nice vertical face. Save it for a warm day since it does not get great sun.

Protection 

Bring a #1 or #2 size Camalot, half a dozen draws, and a rope.


Comments on Gravity's Angel Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 21, 2014
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 1, 2002

This is an awesome pitch, but it doesn't feel like a BC or CC clip-up. Pretty sustained steep slab climbing with healthy runs between the bolts for a 5.11b leader. Thin moves right off the deck. #1 1/2 F & wire useful before the 1st bolt. The R traverse high above the 2nd bolt feels out there with little for the hands -_ long reach/lean R. After the 3rd bolt there is balancey footwork with 2 foot crosses. Move L after the 5th bolt. Another diamond in the rough! Great vision. Thanks [Andy] and Eric.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2002
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The book beta says that a 2" cam can be placed between the first and second bolts. No Longer True. There is no placement there, but there is plenty of broken rock as of ??? I was there on Saturday, 6/14/02 and the rock was on the ground. I hope that nobody was injured.

As an end result, the climb is actually slightly easier in that spot and does not require a placement. Even most 5.10 leaders will feel comfortable getting to the second bolt, but if you are not a 5.11 leader , you probably don't want to be on lead on this anyway...No real bad fall potential, but you could skin yourself up pretty badly.

I am 5'10" and felt that the right-hand traverse around the 2nd-3rd clip was somewhat reachy, but more for the feet than hands. The crux upper part between Bolts 4-5 is quite thin and can be solved different ways, with or without crosses.

From the 5th bolt to the top is some distance, but is safe if going left and will feel like easy buckets. It is pretty safe overall.
By Erik Johnson
Aug 28, 2002

Your welcome Leo, ...most appreciation to Erik J. who had the vision.--aa
By tobias
From: CO
Jun 22, 2003

There's a DANGER: LOOSE BLOCKS warning on "Heavy Weather" that probably applies to this climb as well. May want to check it out...
By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 22, 2003

I don't think the danger from the Heavy Weather death blocks applies.... the fall line for those blocks is well to the left of this route.
By Jeff Buhl
Jul 26, 2003

This is truly a great route - although there are many to choose from it stands out as solid for the grade and aesthics of the movement. There are several distint cruxes that require solid foot, hand, body, and head work...and not too much chalk to show the possiblitiles. Awesome!

I see that these bolts are ~16-17 years old and are looking fairly rusted. Realizing that the are 3/8" and that this may sound silly - Does anyone have any idea if they are still relatively safe? or the expected life on them?
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
May 29, 2005

What an excellent and sustained route, one of the best on Peanuts in my opinion! A Black Alien and/or small offset Aliens can be used to protect the runout between the 1st and 2nd bolt, and it would be a 5.9 s or vs section without gear there. After the 2nd bolt, no more gear is needed but draws, and there are some rather spicy but safe runouts between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and after the 5th bolt. Lots of fun, thin, and footy climbing throughout!
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2008

There didn't appear to be any gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt... tread carefully as you could hit the deck before clipping #2. Otherwise, brilliant slab climbing.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jul 22, 2009

This route, Forbidden Planet, and Blows against the Empire make for a great bunch of 5.11 climbing that are easy to get to, well protected, and high quality. We climbed this one Sunday, and I did not see any rust on the bolts, however; the lichen this year does seem abundant. I would recommend that subsequent parties bring a brush.
By crankenstein
Sep 3, 2009

A great pitch, but it sure could use an upgrade regarding the fixed protection. I also don't think that there is any good gear between the first and second bolt; the rock quality is questionable for all of the small options and the old #2 cam slot is definitely broken and no longer useful. I'm wondering if something else broke since it seems to be a lot harder than I remember passing the second bolt?
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Oct 18, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Very cool face climbing with 2 cruxy sections. I got a pretty good small stopper and a red C3 before the second bolt to help ease the ground fall potential.
By Stefan Griebel
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

All of the bolts on Gravity's Angel have now been upgraded to either 5-piece Rawl 3/8" x 3" or Fixe stainless. Thanks to ACE (Action Committee for Eldorado) for the tools and hardware.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
May 27, 2010

In regards to Stefan's comments on the rebolting of this route: In reading his description, it appears that some non-stainless hardware (3" x 3/8" Rawl 5-piece bolts are plated and not stainless) was used. I hope I am mistaken, but if not, there are several organizations which promote rebolting (ASCA, ARI, etc.) which provide stainless hardware free of charge. It doesn't make sense to me in light of all the time and trouble to do rebolting to use non-stainless hardware.

Also, if I am not mistaken, don't the rebolting guidelines for Eldorado State Park require that stainless hardware be used?
By Rob DeZonia
Sep 6, 2011

Great route! All cruxes are well protected. The rock is amazing. An Eldo classic. A good place to spend on a hot summer morning. I don't remember it being spicy, but I've only lead it a few times and we were using it for a warm up.
By Mr. Stevens
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 21, 2014

I'll add some beta since no one has commented for a while....

I found this climb to be fantastic! Certainly better than the neighboring "Home Free". I was able to get some solid gear between the 1st and 2nd bolt by climbing up and left from the 1st bolt and into some licheny rock where I got a purple Mastercam and red c3 (both had long slings on them). It seemed a bit contrived, but it was better than going straight up to the 2nd bolt and risking a serious groundfall, especially because some of the rock just below the 2nd bolt is suspect. After the 2nd bolt it was a great, technical, footwork intensive climb!