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Shape Shifter Area
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Gravity Pool 

Gravity Pool 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Mike M. 2009
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Aug 26, 2013
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Description 

This route climbs out two roofs on the far left side of the Shape Shifter area. Start up an arete with technical moves past two bolts. Clip high and pull the overhang and continue up a cryptic dihedral. Bust another crux past a fixed draw to pull a second roof. The first anchor is right above the roof at ~20m. If continuing to the second anchor it is smart to extend some of the draws on the first section. Continue up an easy section until the face thins to a five foot double arete. Work up using both sides with trickery and small holds. Quite a long route!

It's 12b to the first anchor. The section to the second anchor is in the 11b/c range.


Location 

At the far left of the Shape Shifter area. To the right of Va Va Voom. Start on some broken rock on an arete under a huge roof. If doing the upper section you will need to rappel.


Protection 

7 bolts and a fixed draw on the first pitch. 12 more bolts on the second pitch. The anchor at 20m has mussy hooks. There are chains at the top anchor.



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