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God only knows what was running through their heads at the T-Wall in July, but maybe that explains the combined effort. Bring lots of chalk if you're looking to replicate the FA experience, and maybe leave those tiny Aliens on the ground. Me, I climbed it in February, and was happy to have the 21st-century tiny techy stuff.
Look for a series of disconnected vertical cracks about 15' right of Golden Locks. Follow this to the overhang, and traverse in to GL to finish. A 2-bolt direct finish that I haven't climbed was added by Michael Emilianoff in 1990; straight up, .11c.
The pebbly face right of Golden Locks. You shouldn't have to wait in line.
"If you want a shot at enjoying this lead be sure to carry an arsenal of small to medium-sized protection."-- RR, Deep South Climber's Companion, 1993.
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 21, 2010
Emphasis on the small stuff...and be ready to climb above gear.