|Type:||Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Pon & Mills|
|Submitted By:||J Marsella on Feb 19, 2011|
|Comments on Grateful Head||Add Comment|
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By Andrew Shewmaker
From: Longmont, CO
Sep 19, 2011
|Piton in the middle is still in good shape. There is some lichen built up as you move around to the right, but the route is pretty well protected.|
Jul 11, 2012
I'd give this route a 5.10b rating, my partner was suggesting 10c/d. The slabby portions are difficult if you aren't a skilled slab climber. I'm not sure what 10a slab is vs. 10d slab (vs 11a for that matter). So I'll just say that at multiple places there are minimal holds where you just have to step up, the angles are low enough at some of those spots to not make it really scary.
After you get up onto the rib, it's easy going, the middle of the route is the difficult stuff. Also note that there's a nice, healthy, little tree below the second (?) bolt (a pin actually), which gets in the way of the rope. I went right to avoid the rope on the the tree, and used a shoulder length runner to keep the rope away from the tree/rock. My partner went left of the tree (which I think is easier climbing) but spent the time to try to get the rope over and around the tree.
Gillett book gives is 5.9+. So ok, perhaps it is the 5.9+ aka the most scary grade out there. Probably best not to hand this off to a new leader, especially if you are expecting Boulder Canyon grading.