This excellent route begins just to the right of the landmark Eumenides dihedral on Sundance Buttress. From where the trail reaches the rock in the vicinity of Turnkorner, head left past Kor's Flake, and Mainliner. Begin just left of Sidetrack at an obvious finger crack leading up and right.
P1. Climb the tricky crux finger crack up and right to a left-facing corner system. Head left to a fixed sling anchor at the top. (~140 feet).
P2. Step back right and follow the fist crack (5.7) up to a chimney system. Continue up until an amazing slot appears. Climb this to the top - excellent hand sized protection in the left crack or finger sized pro in the right crack at the back of the chimney. This goes at 5.6 and is a great intro to chimney climbing. Stellar pitch. You can continue up and left about 25 feet for a higher belay to avoid an extra pitch (~160 feet).
P3. Follow the corner up and left. Either climb runout 5.9 straight up the face, or step down and left into an easy crack system, then step back right for one more steep crack section (5.7) to a belay ledge. (~160 feet from the higher P2 belay).
P4. Follow the left-facing corner system. Where is steepens, it is possible to climb the face/cracks on the left at 8+, but it is also apparently possible to continue jamming right up the corner at strenuous 5.8 (we went left).
P5 and P6. Two more wandering and easier pitches to the summit. You can exit after P5 going right to the Saddle Descent.
Nuts and cams to #3 Camalot. An extra each #2 and #3 Camalot will probably get used.
Looking down into the bowels of the chimney from t...
Deb Thompson, start of P2, before the chimney.
Surveying the chimney pitch, as viewed from the ni...
Anders stuck ... uh, following the chimney pitch.
Anders just above the crux start of the first pitc...
Anders above the 5.9+ variation on the third pitch...
Deb Thompson, P3, don't go left & place a black Al...
Deb Thompson, on the start of P1, zoomed in. Prob...
Alan emerging from the top of pitch 1 (as done wit...
Deb Thompson, end of P1, on the traverse, going ne...
Nearing the top of the chimney....
|By Doug Dakins|
Jul 1, 2002
A great route! The phrase of the day was when we did it "be wary of 1965 5.6 Kor chimneys." That thing is difficult. It has good pro. You may want to save a bigger piece for the top. The chimney pitch of Kor's Flake is much easier IMO. The rest of the pitches are outstanding. Great crack climbing. My favorites were pitches 1 and 4. The two 8+ pitches. Pitch 4 through the roof/overlap is really great Lumpy climbing. We did Mainliner the weekend after Grapevine. I lead every pitch of both climbs, and I thought Grapevine was slightly harder, overall.
|By Errett Allen|
Jul 9, 2002
The "fixed sling" anchor mentioned at the top of the first pitch in this description is a bunch of slings around a cheesy loose-looking block. A much safer belay can be arranged near the bottom of the wide crack that starts pitch 2.
|By Hayden Yurkanis|
Jul 9, 2002
Hmmm, I didn't find this climb to be nearly as great as everyone else has described it. The view and the exposure is fun, but the climbing line itself is a "Grapevine", wandering and easy. The "crux", I felt, was an easy antisandbag lasting only a foot or two.......the rest of the climb has very little technical climbing. The most classic pitch of the climb is the chimney--which is actually pretty sweet as far as chimneys go. This climb is definitely worth doing though---because it is long---, but don't be expecting three-star climbing like found on the Book.
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 5, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I thought that the "5.6" chimney was the crux of this route. Granted I am not a chimney climber, but that thing felt much more like 5.8 to me.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 23, 2004
I also agree this climb isn't three star status. Each pitch indeed has some fun climbing, but also some crappy sections. The chimney pitch is something else, pretty spectacular little slot, but way harder than 5.6. Gear recommendation: 1 set stoppers, 1 set cams, 4 or 5 hexes should be perfect to make you feel comfortable.
Also, if the fist crack beginning the second pitch isn't your cup of tea, you can easily step left and follow a thin crack for 10 feet and end up in the same place.
|By Holly Barnard|
Jul 25, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I thought the crux of this climb was actually just a few feet off the deck and only lasted about 2 moves. I also had some questionable gear going into these moves in a flaring finger crack. The squeeze chimney was miserable - I wouldn't call it 5.6 even if it were at Vedauwoo. If you are carrying your approach shoes or a pack you'll definitely want to hang them below you on runner. Aside from the low crux on the 1st pitch, I thought the route had excellent placements all the way up. We didn't do the 5.9 variation.
|By Buzz Burrell|
Jul 2, 2007
The route description here on MP is much better than in the book. Here's how we saw it:
P1: Thought that nice finger crack off the ground might be the hardest climbing on the route. Then much easier up to rap station.
P2: The squeeze chimney was surprising. It is 5.6, but a thrash if you have shoes, bottle, etc clipped to harness. Gear slings instead of harness rack would be helpful. Pass the rap anchor at the top of this, and continue 40' up left to nice flat perch right on on the corner.
P3: There's a good finger ledge 9 feet directly above this belay. Didn't see any 5.6 to left or right, and the lack of footholds made it look much harder than "5.9R". So to get the extra 8" needed to touch the ledge, I stood on my seated partners shoulder - 5.8 AO! She took tension and did one batman move while seconding. P3 then can stop below or continue up past that dramatic left facing dihedral/overhang. The book rates the dihedral as "strenuous 5.8+" but staying on the left face seemed more sensible for a "mild 5.8". That's basically the top of hard stuff.
P4: One can formulate different crack/groove systems while angling up right to join Mainliner and the "Saddle" descent. We kept going straight up, aiming for an obvious deep slot, which turned out to be good, enjoyable, 5.7 climbing, 250' ending on top of the Sundance crest - very nice.
Walk back on the crest until can enter the east gully high up. There's one rap station into the gully but don't need it.
|By Bill Duncan|
From: Jamestown, CO
Jun 25, 2010
70m rope beta:
This route can be done in 4 pitches with a 70m rope.
P1: Climb to the base of the large chimney. ~210'
P2: Climb to the base of the left-facing 5.8 dihedral at the top of pitch 3. ~220'
P3: Climb up into the variety of cracks on the upper face. Many possible variations here. We chose a fairly direct line that had some spice. ~225'
P4: Top out via the route of your choice. ~200'
The rope drag was very reasonable and not an issue on this route. An extra set of cams in the mid range was useful.
|By jeremy long|
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011
One of the coolest 5.6 pitches in The Park.
|By Brent Apgar|
From: Out of the Loop
Jun 13, 2011
The 3 stars is for the really fun chimney. The rest of the route makes for a nice day out, but the 2nd pitch definitely makes Grapevine worth the walk.
|By justin hausmann|
Jun 18, 2012
Good route! Did 6 pitches to the top. Only combined p1 and p2 (200 ft), but setting up right below the real chimney was an uncomfortable belay stance. So, kept the remaining recommended stances. Geared up to #4 and found it useful to double up on mid-sizes with only couple small nuts or cams for the thin parts. Did three tree raps from the summit, only the last with existing slings but saw another slung tree to our side. Followed what seemed natural for descending. 5.9 direct on p4 not so bad for short guy if started on jug to the right of the top of chimney pitch; just bad feet and exposure for the first move then casual. Thought the money pitch was stemming on the 8+ dihedral, p5. We then followed the line of least resistance to the top veering left. Thanks for the above beta, Bill. The 5.6 chim felt easier than voo 5.6 for me, but then again I did puke and pass out after climbing Voo 5.6.
|By Ryan Stefani|
Jul 29, 2012
Is there a consensus on the overlap to the right on the first pitch? It's about 120' up and after a 10' traverse from the featured, brushy groove, then up under a roof. The feet ain't great, and the first few hands above the lip are about finger-sized. I give it a hard 9, possibly up to a 10-... but that rating could be affected by A) the fall I took, B) the fact that I can't climb anything steep, or C) I can't boulder anything harder than V0-.... Anyone else have an opinion?
|By Andy Kowles|
Aug 26, 2013
Linking P1-3 with a 70m is reasonable for a strong team. The comfy belay atop the chimney after a 225' pitch is satisfying.
5.8 upper corner is the crux (IMO) if you commit to the steep jams.
On P1, you can spice it up (to 5.9 R on positive holds) by face climbing on the left, away from the bushy crack that Sidetrack climbers sometimes occupy.