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 ADVANCED
Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
Routes Sorted
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Earthly Night S 
Fastest Gun, The T 
Firing Line T 
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Gamesmanship T 
Grapes of Wrath T 
Great Dihedral, The T 
Green Onion T 
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Son of a Mother T,S 
Son of Slime T 
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Sting, The T 
Sunburst Arete T 

Grapes of Wrath 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 450
Submitted By: Derek Doucet on Jul 10, 2010

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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    From the right end of the ledge 10' up Green Onion, climb up a left rising weakness aiming for a high bolt at an obvious overlap. A hideously loose 2' square flake is passed along the way. This section is 5.8 or 5.9ish, protected with marginal gear (shallow RPs or something similar), and requires care. It is very difficult to avoid the loose flake completely on the way to the first bolt. Tread lightly and don't fall! The reward is a long, sustained stretch of impeccable Poko face climbing with a hard, puzzling, and very thin crux, plus loads of fine 5.10 climbing to top it off. After the dangerous flake, the moves are superb and the protection good.

    Location 

    Begin as for Green Onion, and climb to the obvious ledge 10' up. Walk right along the ledge for 15' to a left rising weakness, which leads to a small overlap and line of bolts.

    Protection 

    Bolts, and a small selection of wired nuts from RPs to BD#8 or so. A small alien or two might also prove useful, though not truly necessary.


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    By Jon Clark
    From: Philadelphia, PA
    Jun 24, 2014
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    This route is somewhere between good and great (2.5 stars) and definately worth doing if in the area. Multiple cruxes separated by good stances. Play nice with the loose flake/block near the start as per the description above.