Access to the Main Face is often limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting. Check the DEC web site (www.dec.ny.gov, search for "peregrine route closures"). Closures are posted in the kiosk at the beginning of the approach trail in the (now closed) Poke-O Campground.
Several recent incidents at the Poke-O Moonshine Main Face have heightened tensions with neighboring landowners.
Shortcut Trail (aka the Smitty Trail): The main approach goes from the (now closed) campground to the cliff near Discord. There is a shortcut trail on the right that provides access to the cliff near Pentecostal. This shortcut trail crosses the edges of two parcels of private land, and was closed in the spring of 2014. As of Aug 30, 2014, this trail is open on a tentative basis. Stay on the trail; there are some cairns and Access Fund signage to help.
Northern Trail Closure (aka the Easy Living Trail): There is an old trail that connects US 9 with the cliff near Psalm 32. This trail is entirely on private land and should NOT be used by climbers; indeed, it has been closed and undocumented for many years. Both ends of this trail are now marked with signs courtesy of the Access Fund.
In short, while visiting the Main Face, approach from the campground, and stay on the main trail along the base of the cliff.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
From the right end of the ledge 10' up Green Onion, climb up a left rising weakness aiming for a high bolt at an obvious overlap. A hideously loose 2' square flake is passed along the way. This section is 5.8 or 5.9ish, protected with marginal gear (shallow RPs or something similar), and requires care. It is very difficult to avoid the loose flake completely on the way to the first bolt. Tread lightly and don't fall! The reward is a long, sustained stretch of impeccable Poko face climbing with a hard, puzzling, and very thin crux, plus loads of fine 5.10 climbing to top it off. After the dangerous flake, the moves are superb and the protection good.
Begin as for Green Onion, and climb to the obvious ledge 10' up. Walk right along the ledge for 15' to a left rising weakness, which leads to a small overlap and line of bolts.
Bolts, and a small selection of wired nuts from RPs to BD#8 or so. A small alien or two might also prove useful, though not truly necessary.
By Jon Clark From: Philadelphia, PA Jun 24, 2014 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
This route is somewhere between good and great (2.5 stars) and definately worth doing if in the area. Multiple cruxes separated by good stances. Play nice with the loose flake/block near the start as per the description above.