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Grape Ape 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Ken Kisiel, 12/2000
Page Views: 2,984
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
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Tina on the upper section of "Grape Ape."

Description 

Big muscles will power you over the technical cruxes through the roof section, but save something for the hairy, airy, and crimpy headwall. Splendid position, long route, cool moves.

To find this route, look for the trail that goes along the base of the cliff and follow it until you find a wooden post at the beginning of Post Moderate. Grape Ape is the bolted line just to the left of this route.


Protection 

17 bolts to chain anchors.
Two 50m ropes or a single 80m rope required for the descent.



Photos of Grape Ape Slideshow Add Photo
Amy on what she calls the best 5.10 in the state. November 2009.
Amy on what she calls the best 5.10 in the state. ...
Kevin on Grape Ape.
Kevin on Grape Ape.
Chuck turning roof #1.  Photo by Bob Robertson
Chuck turning roof #1. Photo by Bob Roberts...
Rick Bradshaw on the First Ascent of Grape Ape - Photo by Walt Wehner
Rick Bradshaw on the First Ascent of Grape Ape - P...
Tina on the cool moves that take you out of the corner and on to the face.
Tina on the cool moves that take you out of the co...
Scott helping me clean "Grape Ape" in the most easiest and funnest way.
Scott helping me clean "Grape Ape" in the most eas...
Comments on Grape Ape Add Comment
Show which comments
By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 8, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Excellent climb. Crux going over roof. Watch out for thin top. If you get pumped on lower part the top will get your attention if grip is weak on crimpers.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 5, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

This route is awesome. Best 5.10 I've done at Diablo. For some reason the rock is several grades better than all the other routes in the canyon.

By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 10, 2007

Great route. I think it's more like 17 quickdraws plus the anchors... bring lots.

By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2007

Great climb. The quality of rock is some of the best in the canyon. The over abundance of chalk takes a bit away from the onsight experience. But what else can you expect from one of the best 5.10s in the state!

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 21, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The name Grape Ape reportedly originated from a hairy belligerent purple-fleece-wearing Santa Fean who was working on a nearby trad route at the time of the FA, and wasn't too psyched about the LA crew drilling a 17-bolt sport route right next to it. You can see the purple fleece on the ground in Bradshaw's photo from the FA
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If you don't have a 2nd rope, you can get down from this climb with 1 rope by rappeling first to the anchor for Highly Caffienated then down from there; it involves some swinging (not too bad, but not straightforward).
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This is one of the best 5.10 sport climbs around.

By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 22, 2008

George's story on the name is sort of close to the truth but significantly more entertaining so I won't spoil it. I think Ken Kisiel came up with the moniker after a brief encounter with the hairy gentleman when we were working on establishing the route. We changed the line a bit to accommodate his concern, which actually made the route a bit better. The name made us laugh so much we named it after him.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Having just recently acquired an 80m rope, we now know one can lower off this route with a single 80m rope. I suspect the same is true for Blind Faith but we haven't tried it yet.

By TLob
Mar 21, 2014

Had the honor of climbing this with Rick Bradshaw. Such an awesome climb with great variety. Nice and long…enjoy the rests where you get em:)