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Like Harrison Shull says in the guidebook, you should be solid at the grade before jumping on this one. I think the hardest moves come before you get any gear in. The potential fall is hard to describe, but you'll see it when you're looking at the route.
That said, Granola is a pretty fun undercling/crack route once you pull those first moves. And they're not that hard...
The route is just right of Fruit Loops. Scramble up the large detached flake and belay from here. The "opening moves" involve a mantel on good holds up another flake.
Double-bolt rap anchor.
(The guidebook describes a second pitch, but I haven't done it. Most people don't. It looks fun, though.)
Take a variety of smaller stuff (up to a #2 camalot). Anything you place under the initial undercling roof should be slung long.
Eric at the crux of Granola
Chris Whisenhunt completing the crux.
The Granola traverse
BETA PHOTO: View from the base of the standing flake to the an...
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 20, 2009
Second pitch climbs from under the roof at the anchors via a big crack. Pull this and romp to the top. I think there were rings up there also.
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
It would be wise if you are afraid of the opening moves to lead Fruit Loops first then place your first piece of gear for Granola on rappel. A fall from the crux moves (the opening moves) would be punishing. You would fall between 10'-25' into a Chimney system.
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Should be solid at the grade, its a nasty fall.
Nov 23, 2010
The two second pitch vars. are excellent.
Var.1: From the belay anchors at the top of P1. Climb the fist crack out left overhead and turn the lip at 5.8. #4 camalot is helpful. Climb moderate terrain to two bolt belay.
Var.2: Traverse right from the P1 belay to gain a finger crack in a steep roof. Plug bomber gear and vault out over the lip on a few jugs. Belay from bolts on Frosted Flake. 5.9 Rap Frosted Flake and get your top rope on!
|By Sam Stephens|
Jan 20, 2011
Pitch 2 is worth doing. Watch the rope drag and string it out into one long pitch. Belay from the anchors up top and have fun getting back to the rings at the top of the first "pitch".
From: Raleigh, NC
Dec 30, 2011
I didn't find the fall potential to be too bad... Getting up to the first ledge is easy, and from there it's one solid mantle up to the crack and pro. The undercling traverse that follows is fun and heady. The main crack goes easy, with a little surprise waiting at the very end. Make sure to top rope Whiskey for Breakfast from the anchors!
From: Huntersville, North Carolina
Mar 13, 2013
I fell at the crux and I feel very lucky to only have sore feet now a week later. I could hardly walk after catching booth heels on that flake. I did get back up and finish the route. I think next time I won't mess around under the roof. Just place one piece and go. As soon as you get around the corner it's easy.