Granny's Route 5.4
| 954 page views
Good page?   |
BETA PHOTO: hahaha... the holds are much cleaner than this...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This route right now would be described as chossy at best, Jim Shimberg cleaned this route a few years back for two reasons, an easier climb for beginners and an alternative to walking around the cliff to put up a top rope. This climb is fun even in the mossy conditions. Without the moss the holds can seem sharp because it is a newer route. There is no defined crux but as the route is now the crux would be dealing with the mossy holds. This route could be close to the same quality as A Week With Pete and don't mind some moss get on this route you will have some dirty fun.
Location This is the far left route at the 5.8 Crag, this is left of Asbury Park when you reach the Asbury Park arete walk around it and it will be a few feet from the arete just past a cluster of trees close to the rock, look for the easy mossy slab with bolts.
Protection 4 maybe 5 bolts and anchors
me on the route
|
Looking down from the anchors. Almost doesn't even...
| |
| Comments on Granny's Route |
|
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 9, 2009
| thats great... i was just looking at that a few weeks ago wondering why someone put up a climb on pure moss... now i know... if you like dirty climbs do the chimney of doom... its so fun... and awful... |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 9, 2009
| yeah i guess the route was completely clean at one point but it gets wet easy and not much traffic so it grows back quickly, I do plan on getting on the chimney of doom i have an odd fascination with chossy routes |
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 7, 2009
| i did this yesterday just for kicks and giggles and was laughing the whole way up haha :) when you walk up its just a mat of green moss and a random bolt sticking out of it and your like ...whhhaaaaatttt???? lol and there is almost some bushwacking to be done near the anchors.... my only question is... 2 stars? haha idk about 2 stars :) |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 7, 2009
| yeah the two stars was probably a gift but i found it surprisingly fun haha |
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 9, 2009
| I've never done this route. I saw the bolts sticking out of the moss and I was like WTF? It's good that this route was posted but, but 2 stars? You have a twisted idea of fun Matt. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 9, 2009
| That I do Jay, I think because it is dirty and almost funny how dirty it is i enjoyed it, not sying everyone will enjoy it as much as me, but I did enjoy it. Maybe a good cleaning is due, I may do just that... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 9, 2009
| cleaning it could ruin it haha.... i think i have the same twisted opinion of what fun is... but jay knows that :) |
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 9, 2009
| i think the 2 stars comes from the laugh factor lol :) you cant really keep a strait face while your fighting moss shrubs and trying to clip a bolt lol :) |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 9, 2009
| Lee and Mike both well said, but this route does have good potential if it was cleaned, lso more people would do it if it wasnt like climbng a moss field... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 20, 2010
| Just climbed it today... awesome! clean it if you want but it was fun just how it is :) |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 20, 2010
| I am glad I am not the only one who thinks that! |
By J Meagher
Dec 6, 2012
| The guidebook gives this an "R" for the protection rating... Does anybody think that's accurate, or is it just a typo? |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 8, 2012
| The route only has 3 bolts so a fall would not be pleasant and with the amount of moss it does make it a bit less secure, but not sure if a R rating is really due... |
|
RSS Feed
5 more...
Slideshow
