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Granny Goose (5.7) is definitely a roadside attrac...
This is the obvious offwidth crack on the far right-hand side of the formation which starts in a left-trending undercling/crack until you reach the wider crack that heads straight up. When the crack ends step right to easy friction that will get you to the top. Easy downclimb to the climber's right.
This climb accepts a full range of gear, it starts thin about red alien/.5 camalot and widens up top to a #4 camalot.; large cams will suffice for anchors
BETA PHOTO: Left Hand of Darkness
Sierra Zacks following the really fun Granny Goose...
Granny Goose provides a good edge shot.
BETA PHOTO: Granny Goose has a nice traverse with a perfect un...
Fred at the end of the traverse.
A #3 Camalot goes well here.
BETA PHOTO: Granny Goose follows the obvious offwidth crack.
Me leading Granny Goose.
photo by Myong Moon
Myong on Granny Goose.
|By Woody Stark|
Nov 1, 2003
This wretched route is painful, and I'd rate it eight not seven
|By Steve Powell|
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 2, 2003
Led this route back in '97. I don't like traverses, but this is a short one. I disagree about the route being an eight. It is definitely a seven.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
May 3, 2006
Decent enough route. The lower traverse is all buckets with the top being the crux, with a just slightly bigger than fists crack. Two #2 camalots for anchoring the top, just back from the edge. Employ a couple of long runners to make it comfortable.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2007
A thoroughly enjoyable climb. Leading the traverse was awesome!
From: Mesa AZ
Oct 8, 2008
This is definetly a seven, the traverse is the easiest part of the climb imho - The down climb is on the back side and should be done w care...
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 11, 2008
Honestly, I loved this route. Very fun moves, and juggy flake climbing. I'd say 5.7 as well.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 6, 2010
I like this climb. Although the crack after the really nice traverse looks intimidating, especially where it steepens it yields well to just one foot jam and hand holds thereabouts on the face or the edge of the crack.
From: Boise, ID
Dec 13, 2010
A nice little route. Felt a bit easier than some other 5.7s in the area, and I don't know where the painful part would have been . . .
|By Eric T.|
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 27, 2011
Fun undercling, but too short to make it worth the downclimb.
Oct 30, 2012
I lead this last weekend and followed the second traverse, the one up near the top. The route exits straight up from the vertical crack, but I went to the left on the face with thin feet and uncomfortable hands. I rate the upper traverse an 8 or 8+.
Does anybody have any information about whether a variation route exists off of, and/or angling left away from granny Goose.
From: Oakland CA
Oct 30, 2012
I've only done the route once but I did that high left traverse through the crack and thought it was pretty fun and 5.7. And how did you lead this but follow the second traverse?
Oct 31, 2012
@ caughtinside: I lead the entire route from ground up. What I meant by followed the second traverse is that I followed the left traversing crack instead of following the smaller crack directly up and out.