Granny Goose 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Fred East & John Edgar 1973 |
| Submitted By: | Steven Powers on Jan 1, 2002 |
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Granny Goose (5.7) is definitely a roadside attrac...
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Description This is the obvious offwidth crack on the far right-hand side of the formation which starts in a left-trending undercling/crack until you reach the wider crack that heads straight up. When the crack ends step right to easy friction that will get you to the top. Easy downclimb to the climber's right.
Protection This climb accepts a full range of gear, it starts thin about red alien/.5 camalot and widens up top to a #4 camalot.; large cams will suffice for anchors
BETA PHOTO: Left Hand of Darkness
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Sierra Zacks following the really fun Granny Goose...
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Granny Goose provides a good edge shot.
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BETA PHOTO: Granny Goose has a nice traverse with a perfect un...
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Fred at the end of the traverse.
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Leg jam.
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A #3 Camalot goes well here.
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BETA PHOTO: Granny Goose follows the obvious offwidth crack.
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Me leading Granny Goose.
photo by Myong Moon
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Myong on Granny Goose.
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By Woody Stark
Nov 1, 2003
| This wretched route is painful, and I'd rate it eight not seven |
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 2, 2003
| Led this route back in '97. I don't like traverses, but this is a short one. I disagree about the route being an eight. It is definitely a seven. |
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 3, 2006
rating: 5.7
| Decent enough route. The lower traverse is all buckets with the top being the crux, with a just slightly bigger than fists crack. Two #2 camalots for anchoring the top, just back from the edge. Employ a couple of long runners to make it comfortable. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2007
| A thoroughly enjoyable climb. Leading the traverse was awesome! |
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Oct 8, 2008
| This is definetly a seven, the traverse is the easiest part of the climb imho - The down climb is on the back side and should be done w care... |
By BenCooper
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 11, 2008
| Honestly, I loved this route. Very fun moves, and juggy flake climbing. I'd say 5.7 as well. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 6, 2010
rating: 5.7
| I like this climb. Although the crack after the really nice traverse looks intimidating, especially where it steepens it yields well to just one foot jam and hand holds thereabouts on the face or the edge of the crack. |
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Dec 13, 2010
rating: 5.7
| A nice little route. Felt a bit easier than some other 5.7s in the area, and I don't know where the painful part would have been . . . |
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Fun undercling, but too short to make it worth the downclimb. |
By mmurduff
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| I lead this last weekend and followed the second traverse, the one up near the top. The route exits straight up from the vertical crack, but I went to the left on the face with thin feet and uncomfortable hands. I rate the upper traverse an 8 or 8+.
Does anybody have any information about whether a variation route exists off of, and/or angling left away from granny Goose. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 30, 2012
| I've only done the route once but I did that high left traverse through the crack and thought it was pretty fun and 5.7. And how did you lead this but follow the second traverse? |
By mmurduff
Oct 31, 2012
rating: 5.7+
| @ caughtinside: I lead the entire route from ground up. What I meant by followed the second traverse is that I followed the left traversing crack instead of following the smaller crack directly up and out. |
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