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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
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Granny Goose 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Fred East & John Edgar 1973
Page Views: 1,600
Submitted By: Steven Powers on Jan 1, 2002

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A #3 Camalot goes well here.

Description 

This is the obvious offwidth crack on the far right-hand side of the formation which starts in a left-trending undercling/crack until you reach the wider crack that heads straight up. When the crack ends step right to easy friction that will get you to the top. Easy downclimb to the climber's right.


Protection 

This climb accepts a full range of gear, it starts thin about red alien/.5 camalot and widens up top to a #4 camalot.; large cams will suffice for anchors



Photos of Granny Goose Slideshow Add Photo
Left Hand of Darkness
BETA PHOTO: Left Hand of Darkness
Granny Goose (5.7) is definitely a roadside attraction
Granny Goose (5.7) is definitely a roadside attrac...
Sierra Zacks following the really fun Granny Goose.
Sierra Zacks following the really fun Granny Goose...
Me leading Granny Goose. <br /> <br />photo by Myong Moon
Me leading Granny Goose.

photo by Myong Moon
Granny Goose provides a good edge shot.
Granny Goose provides a good edge shot.
Leg jam.
Leg jam.
Granny Goose has a nice traverse with a perfect undercling!
BETA PHOTO: Granny Goose has a nice traverse with a perfect un...
Granny Goose follows the obvious offwidth crack.
BETA PHOTO: Granny Goose follows the obvious offwidth crack.
Fred at the end of the traverse.
Fred at the end of the traverse.
Myong on Granny Goose.
Myong on Granny Goose.
Comments on Granny Goose Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 22, 2013
By Woody Stark
Nov 1, 2003

This wretched route is painful, and I'd rate it eight not seven

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 2, 2003

Led this route back in '97. I don't like traverses, but this is a short one. I disagree about the route being an eight. It is definitely a seven.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 3, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Decent enough route. The lower traverse is all buckets with the top being the crux, with a just slightly bigger than fists crack. Two #2 camalots for anchoring the top, just back from the edge. Employ a couple of long runners to make it comfortable.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 30, 2007

A thoroughly enjoyable climb. Leading the traverse was awesome!

By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Oct 8, 2008

This is definetly a seven, the traverse is the easiest part of the climb imho - The down climb is on the back side and should be done w care...

By BenCooper
From: Wyoming
Dec 11, 2008

Honestly, I loved this route. Very fun moves, and juggy flake climbing. I'd say 5.7 as well.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 6, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I like this climb. Although the crack after the really nice traverse looks intimidating, especially where it steepens it yields well to just one foot jam and hand holds thereabouts on the face or the edge of the crack.

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Dec 13, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A nice little route. Felt a bit easier than some other 5.7s in the area, and I don't know where the painful part would have been . . .

By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun undercling, but too short to make it worth the downclimb.

By mmurduff
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I lead this last weekend and followed the second traverse, the one up near the top. The route exits straight up from the vertical crack, but I went to the left on the face with thin feet and uncomfortable hands. I rate the upper traverse an 8 or 8+.

Does anybody have any information about whether a variation route exists off of, and/or angling left away from granny Goose.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Oct 30, 2012

I've only done the route once but I did that high left traverse through the crack and thought it was pretty fun and 5.7. And how did you lead this but follow the second traverse?

By mmurduff
Oct 31, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

@ caughtinside: I lead the entire route from ground up. What I meant by followed the second traverse is that I followed the left traversing crack instead of following the smaller crack directly up and out.

By Matt Michael
From: Oceanside, CA
Dec 22, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Never felt like it was harder than 5.7