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One of the best new routes at Devil's Head - an absolutely great line on impeccable stone.
Granite Rodeo starts out with nice 10+/11- moves until you reach the crux at about 40 feet. Here, the route steepens and the holds all turn upside down! Work your way up three powerful underclings and through the 12b crux. The climbing softens to 11- for awhile until you are forced out onto a giant rounded pillar on edges and knobs.The climbing gets steadily more difficult, culminating with some 11+ moves just under the anchors. After burling through the crux down low, this section has seen many a desperate pumped climber fighting to hang on.
Granite Rodeo is in the center of the Crag Ranch, just right of Meanwhile (see the description of Meanwhile to find it). Granite Rodeo starts from the big ledge which can be reached from Meanwhile's first pitch. Alternately, there is a bolted 5.6 access pitch (6 bolts) to the south. It is probably easiest to get here by walking up into the alcove and looking back at the big red tower - this is your destination. Then look down and you will see the access pitch.
18 bolts (?)
|Comments on Granite Rodeo
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 5, 2003
Does the creativity never cease? Come up to the Ranch. Climb. Perfect weather most of time. Perfect setting. Killer concept. Killer route (spanker as well...). The hump down just about finalized the *!#*$#*!-bum hip, but it was worth the pain. Punching out through the I70 Corridor, I keep looking for more rock as good as The Head, but not much equals the concentration of three star routes to be had at The Head.
From: Golden, CO
May 29, 2010
Was the intended line to stay on the face at the top and avoid the easier crack out left? Fun route with a powerful crux sequence. Looooong pitch.