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Unsorted Routes:

Granite of the Apes 

5.13

   
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Type: Sport, 90 feet
Consensus: 5.13b [details]
FA: Luis Cisneros, Vince Bates, EFR
New Route: Yes
Season: June to November
Submitted By: Luis Cisneros on Sep 8, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Luis getting to the second crux of Granite of the ...

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Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Yet another pearl of the Orifice Wall, crazy steep, beta intensive and ridiculously fun.
Three distinct hard sections lead to the anchors. The climbing is sustained, so it is key to learn how to use and milk the few rests. The ride is not over until is over.

During rainy season, water seeping from the chimney at the top of A Hard Day in the Orifice wets some key holds in the middle section, making the red point quite elusive.


Location 

In the middle of the Orifice Wall. Rigth from A Hard Day and left of Politics.


Protection 

12 bolts and anchors with chain draws



Photos of Granite of the Apes Slideshow Add Photo
Granite of the apes

Granite of the apes

Granite of the apes

Granite of the apes

working Granite of the Apes

working Granite of the Apes

upper crux on Granite of the Apes

upper crux on Granite of the Apes

Vince at the start moves

Vince at the start moves

looking up the steep granite for apes to play

looking up the steep granite for apes to play

Vince on the lower (HARD) crux

Vince on the lower (HARD) crux

Vince in the lower crux moves

Vince in the lower crux moves

reaching to the flake

reaching to the flake

shaking it under the flake

shaking it under the flake

on the second crux

on the second crux

Vince and Meghan at the Orifice Wall

Vince and Meghan at the Orifice Wall


Comments on Granite of the Apes Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 27, 2011
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2010

Congrats Luis!!!!

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2010

Damn! Kicking it up a notch.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Sep 8, 2010

Nice work!

By Marcy
From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Sep 8, 2010

Ha - great route name!!! Congrats!

By Ryan F.
From: Tucson, Arizona
Sep 9, 2010

Good job. That climb look's like one hell of a route everytime I have to hang dog on Orfice politics. Way to put all of it together.

By JSchultz
Sep 10, 2010

Dude! Who's the new badass on the mountain!? Yeah Buddy, wicked! I wish I had seen it. Great job. I can't wait to try it.

By RyanJames
Sep 19, 2010

This route looks AWESOME! Can't wait to get on it!

By Red
From: Arizona
Oct 6, 2010

Nice work Luis! Congratulations!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 18, 2011

Congrats to EFR for his epic send today! It was an astonishing effort to say the least!!!

By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Aug 18, 2011

Great job Eric!! awesome

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Aug 20, 2011

That was quite the entertaining send :-)

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 11, 2011

And the coveted third ascent goes to Jesse! He just wouldn't let go. So inspiring!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 12, 2011

congrats jesse!!!

By Luis Cisneros
From: Tucson
Sep 12, 2011

Great job Jesse!!! Congrats!!! I wish I was there to see it

By JSchultz
Sep 13, 2011

Thanks you all. I am so relieved, I was beginning to think Nippeit the troll was going to have to come show me how to get up the thing...

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Sep 26, 2011

For those of you who missed Jesse's most impressive send.

I am sorry for the poor camera work, but not all all for the musical selection.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.13

.Love the music choice but I would love to hear the grunts, groans, thankyou jesus, that is standard when Jesse is giving it everything he has. I heard it was a real battle.

By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Sep 27, 2011

Well maybe next time I will put a mic on his collar - Unfortunately he was too far away for my crappy camera to pick up except for the little epic when his feet cut loose.