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Hobgoblin Spires
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Grandfather Hobgoblin T 
Rink-Kudo T 

Grandfather Hobgoblin 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,107
Submitted By: Dustin Wildermuth on Mar 10, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Leading the last pitch of Grandfather Hobgoblin, a...

PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Pitch 1: Climb a short, left facing corner (5.6). The start of this climb requires a little route finding skills.
Pitch 2: Move up left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay.
Pitch3: The pinnacle looms to the northeast above the notch. Traverse left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay.
Pitch4: Move left from the belay ledge and climb a short crack to a good stance with a funky bolt. From here the pitch wonders a little but route findings is easy.

Location 

Scramble up to the top of the gully and start below the right trough/gully system on the south side of the tallest pinnacle.
Descent: 3 rappels. For rap 1, do a 2-rope rappel past pitch 4's belay (20' below) to anchors in an east facing gully/ramp. For rap 2, do a 2-rope rappel to a bolt anchor atop pitch 1. For rap 3, rappel to the base.

Protection 

1 set of stoppers.
2 sets Friends to 3 inches.
2 ropes


Photos of Grandfather Hobgoblin Slideshow Add Photo
Manny leads P3 of Grandfather Hobgoblin in the Sup...
Manny leads P3 of Grandfather Hobgoblin in the Sup...
Clipping one of the many "bad bolts" on ...
Clipping one of the many "bad bolts" on ...
Hobgoblin Spires
BETA PHOTO: Hobgoblin Spires
At the belay at the top of pitch 2
At the belay at the top of pitch 2
Gordon on pitch 3
Gordon on pitch 3
Belay at the top of pitch 2
Belay at the top of pitch 2
Grandfather hobgoblin
Grandfather hobgoblin

Comments on Grandfather Hobgoblin Add Comment
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By Jon Richard
From: St. Louis, Missouri
Apr 22, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

This is an awesome climb with a high scenic factor. From a protection perspective this is a serious climb not for beginner 5.9 leaders. As with other routes in the "Sups" watch out for loose rock.
By Chris Darr
From: Golden, Co
Jul 17, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The First Ascent party was the (in)famous Banditos... Look for the homemade bolt at the crux. and be sure to girth hitch the barrel cactus at the top of pitch 1, it drives your second crazy.
I also would not consider this a grade III, at most a II.
By Larry Treiber
Apr 2, 2010

FA was Chuck Graf and friends. FFA was Larry Treiber solo, not third class, I used jumars. I rated it 5.9 at the time. We went up to free it one time before, but Fred Hill took a fall off the sloping ledge into the chimney below and that freaked us out. I tried to get Fred and his brother Fred to go back with me, but finally had to go alone. It was a little freaky climbing this route alone, but all went well.
By Ian F.
From: Phx
Apr 3, 2010

Larry you are crazy! I have tried this thing twice in my day, and never had the huevos to get past the infamous "Bad Bolt". Kudos to very large huevos.
By quinndalina
From: Estes Park
Mar 11, 2011

Fun route. Did some touring. Climbed the route, and then climbed up where the rappels follow. Also attempted a crack up and right from the second pitch belay (instead of the usual leftward traverse into the chimney). All was fine until top of the crack a head-sized rock was pitched. Seems like so much potential on the formation, but alas it is the Superstitions!! Helped finish someones clean-up effort of old slings. Rap slings are all newer, all are backed up. A pile of old slings was left in the bushes at the start, we hiked them out. One rope to climb, no problem.