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Grandfather Hobgoblin
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 20
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Routes in Suction Gully
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Cape Canaveral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Grandfather Hobgoblin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lickety Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Mish Monster T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rink-Kudo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Spider Walk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Totgoblin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | ?? |
| Page Views: | 5,454 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Dustin Wildermuth on Mar 10, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS!
Details
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
Description
Pitch 1: Climb a short, left facing corner (5.6). The start of this climb requires a little route finding skills.
Pitch 2: Move up left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay.
Pitch3: The pinnacle looms to the northeast above the notch. Traverse left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay.
Pitch4: Move left from the belay ledge and climb a short crack to a good stance with a funky bolt. From here the pitch wonders a little but route findings is easy.
Pitch 2: Move up left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay.
Pitch3: The pinnacle looms to the northeast above the notch. Traverse left in a ramp and trough system to a skyline notch with a bolt belay.
Pitch4: Move left from the belay ledge and climb a short crack to a good stance with a funky bolt. From here the pitch wonders a little but route findings is easy.
Location
Scramble up to the top of the gully and start below the right trough/gully system on the south side of the tallest pinnacle.
Descent: 3 rappels. For rap 1, do a 2-rope rappel past pitch 4's belay (20' below) to anchors in an east facing gully/ramp. For rap 2, do a 2-rope rappel to a bolt anchor atop pitch 1. For rap 3, rappel to the base.
Descent: 3 rappels. For rap 1, do a 2-rope rappel past pitch 4's belay (20' below) to anchors in an east facing gully/ramp. For rap 2, do a 2-rope rappel to a bolt anchor atop pitch 1. For rap 3, rappel to the base.
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