Carefully climb up to the ledge and clip the first and second bolts. Start right then make a long move left to a gaston and the third clip (12b/c). Go up past a jug and then to the right of the fourth bolt (12c) step back left to easier climbing (11) to finish. About twenty feet of good, hard climbing.
This is the second route from the right on the bottom of Midnight Rock, i.e., it is between Crack a Smile and Viola
Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor. I would suggest stick clipping the third bolt or you could ledge out on the first hard move. With my sequence you need to go above and to the right of the fourth bolt before clipping—a hold broke making the direct sequence much harder.
|By Peter Hunt|
Jun 16, 2006
I had too much for breakfast and broke four separate holds on this, two of them important. The climbing is better than that sounds, and there's less loose stuff now.
|By Charles Cundiff|
Jul 25, 2010
I don't know how many holds Peter broke, but I can't find any good way to start this route, other than pulling on the second draw to move into the gaston. Otherwise the route is great.