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 ADVANCED
Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight S 
Caboose, The S 
Cage, The T 
Caged Bird of Pray T 
Cirque du Soleil S 
Crack a Smile S 
Deus Ex Machina S 
Dyno Mart S 
Engine, The T,S 
Flake Out S 
Geminae Cracks S 
Grande Finale S 
Hack a Drone S 
Hammer Down S 
Jet Stream T 
Karma Chameleon S 
Meltdown S 
Midnight Cowboy S 
Midnight Express S 
Pirate Radar S 
Rycessica T 
Stroke of Midnight, The S 
Union with Earth S 
Voila S 
Weather Report S 

Grande Finale 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA: Bob Horan and Chule Lee. FFA: Ned Harris and Matt Bebe
Page Views: 550
Submitted By: Peter Hunt on Jun 15, 2006

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Matt Bebe on Voila, the Grande Finale face ascends...

Description 

Carefully climb up to the ledge and clip the first and second bolts. Start right then make a long move left to a gaston and the third clip (12b/c). Go up past a jug and then to the right of the fourth bolt (12c) step back left to easier climbing (11) to finish. About twenty feet of good, hard climbing.

Location 

This is the second route from the right on the bottom of Midnight Rock, i.e., it is between Crack a Smile and Viola

Protection 

Seven bolts to a two-bolt anchor. I would suggest stick clipping the third bolt or you could ledge out on the first hard move. With my sequence you need to go above and to the right of the fourth bolt before clipping—a hold broke making the direct sequence much harder.


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Grande Finale.
Grande Finale.

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By Peter Hunt
Jun 16, 2006

I had too much for breakfast and broke four separate holds on this, two of them important. The climbing is better than that sounds, and there's less loose stuff now.
By Charles Cundiff
Jul 25, 2010

I don't know how many holds Peter broke, but I can't find any good way to start this route, other than pulling on the second draw to move into the gaston. Otherwise the route is great.