Grand Theft Auto?  5.8+

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  T Bubb, J Haas, J Wood, 9/07 (?) New Route:  Yes Season:  Autumn Submitted By:  Tony B on Sep 17, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July: The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa Details. In addition, Mallory Cave, Harmon Cave, and Seal View Cave are permanently closed to human use to reduce the chance of introducing white-nose syndrome. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This is an interesting route that was better than it looked at first. I believe it has probably seen prior ascents, at least in part as an escape or alternate option to parts of 'Earache My Eye.'

Climb up a mellow corner for perhaps 40 feet to a large, incut ledge, then stand up on a horn of rock and pull over junky-looking, but solid bulge on slopers (crux) to reach jugs and a bomber 2" cam placement. Continue up the second half of the route, a second, left-facing corner past stoppers, cams, locks and jams to reach the top. A good thread up top makes for a good belay point on the right-hand wall.

Descend via a heads-up but mellow scramble off- down to the base of Ruby Slipper, and then below.

This climb perhaps would be better with a fixed tie-off and a ring at the top.

Location 

On the Nebel Horn Ridge, this route lies just downhill (south) of Ruby Slipper. There is a pair of shallow, left-facing corners there which extend from ground to summit with a large ledge at mid-height. This route is the left most of them, the right being "Earache My Eye."

Protection 

Rack to 2.5" + cordalette for the tie-off belay up top.