Grand Theft Auto?
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This is an interesting route that was better than it looked at first. I believe it has probably seen prior ascents, at least in part as an escape or alternate option to parts of 'Earache My Eye.'
Climb up a mellow corner for perhaps 40 feet to a large, incut ledge, then stand up on a horn of rock and pull over junky-looking, but solid bulge on slopers (crux) to reach jugs and a bomber 2" cam placement. Continue up the second half of the route, a second, left-facing corner past stoppers, cams, locks and jams to reach the top. A good thread up top makes for a good belay point on the right-hand wall.
Descend via a heads-up but mellow scramble off- down to the base of Ruby Slipper
, and then below.
This climb perhaps would be better with a fixed tie-off and a ring at the top.
On the Nebel Horn Ridge, this route lies just downhill (south) of Ruby Slipper
. There is a pair of shallow, left-facing corners there which extend from ground to summit with a large ledge at mid-height. This route is the left most of them, the right being "Earache My Eye."
Rack to 2.5" + cordalette for the tie-off belay up top.
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't be discouraged by the "unknown" name, this is a very nice route. After the first 15 ft, gear placement is great all the way up. Getting up onto the upper hand crack felt like a second crux to me. Warm afternoon sun and beautiful view from the top.
By Jason Haas
Jan 30, 2011
This is listed as "Grand Theft Auto" in the guidebook.