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Grand Teton
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beyer East Face I 
Black Ice Couloir 
Crystal Right 
Direct Petzoldt Ridge 
East Face Direct 
East Ridge 
Ford - Stettner Couloir (Ski Descent) 
Gold Face 
Grand Traverse, The 
Lower Exum Ridge 
North Face Highlight Tour 
North Face Standard 
North Ridge 
Owen Spalding 
Pownall-Gilkey 
Underhill Ridge Original/Direct 
Upper Exum Ridge 
Wittich Crack 
Unsorted Routes:

Grand Teton 


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Elevation: 13,770'
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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Mar 6, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: The southern side of the Grand, showcasing three c...

Description 

From moderate, sunny cruisers to huge mixed gullies and everything in between, the Grand Teton has it all. This iconic mountain is steeped in history.
Although trade classics like the Owen-Spalding and the Exum Ridge can be a cattle train at times, there are plenty of routes to keep everyone satisfied.


Getting There 

Most approaches will start from the Lupine Meadows trailhead and take the trail into Garnet Canyon, eventually reaching the Lower Saddle. Some routes utilize different approaches and will be noted in the proper route descriptions.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Teton:
Owen Spalding   5.4     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1560 feet, Grade II   
Upper Exum Ridge   5.5     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 4000 feet, Grade II   
Direct Petzoldt Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade III   
East Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   
Wittich Crack   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet, Grade II   
Black Ice Couloir   5.7 AI3-4     Trad, Ice, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1600 feet, Grade IV   
Lower Exum Ridge   5.7     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800 feet   
North Face Standard   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 3000 feet, Grade IV   
North Ridge   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV   
North Face Highlight Tour   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade IV   
The Grand Traverse   5.8     Trad, Alpine, 12000 feet, Grade V   
Beyer East Face I   5.9     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade III   
Gold Face   5.10a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 565 feet, Grade III   
Browse More Classics in Grand Teton

Featured Route For Grand Teton
Morning sun on the Grand Teton's north side.  This photo shows the East Ridge, the North Face, the North Ridge, the Grandstand, and Gunsight Notch.  Taken from the Teton Glacier.

North Ridge 5.8  WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton
A truly inspiring climb with classic appeal - the North Ridge is an adventurous route up the striking high angle corner that makes up the right hand skyline of the Grand when seen from Jackson Hole. At the time of its first ascent in 1931, Underhill and Fryxell's route was one of the most technically demanding in the country at 5.7 A0. The Chockstone Chimney (originally aided) went free on the second ascent of the route in 1936, which was made by Fritz Weissner (at 5.8). The North Ridge of th...[more]   Browse More Classics in WY


Photos of Grand Teton Slideshow Add Photo
North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Grand Teton towering above.

North aspects of the Cathedral Group, with the Gra...

Chris Owen on the summit after climbing the Owen-Spalding Route.

Chris Owen on the summit after climbing the Owen-S...

What is this, Pagagonia?  Would you climb the Grand if you woke up at the Lower Saddle and looked up at this (add shrieking wind noise)?

What is this, Pagagonia? Would you climb the Gran...

Summer storm on the Grand! <br />...as seen from Climbers Ranch. <br />

Summer storm on the Grand!
...as seen from Climber...


Nat on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge with the Middle Teton in the background.

Nat on the Grand Teton, Upper Exum Ridge with the ...

Tetons from the road. July 20, 2008

Tetons from the road. July 20, 2008

The Grand From Lupine Meadows Trail

The Grand From Lupine Meadows Trail

The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as seen during the sunset from the lower saddle

The Shadow of the Grand and the Middle Teton as se...

Tetons at night...

Tetons at night...

The grandest of them all!

The grandest of them all!

Garnet Canyon and the Lower Saddle.

Garnet Canyon and the Lower Saddle.

The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Horan.

The Tetons, the mighty wind catcher. Photo: Bob Ho...

Parapenter above Glencoe Col.

Parapenter above Glencoe Col.

Winter dawn, Grand Teton.

Winter dawn, Grand Teton.

Spalding Falls in Garnet Canyon

Spalding Falls in Garnet Canyon

Looking down at the meadows bivy site in Garnet Canyon.

BETA PHOTO: Looking down at the meadows bivy site in Garnet Ca...

Lower Saddle from moraine

BETA PHOTO: Lower Saddle from moraine

The fixed rope up to the Lower Saddle.

BETA PHOTO: The fixed rope up to the Lower Saddle.

The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle

The Grand in B&W from the Lower Saddle

The Grand Teton

The Grand Teton

The Grand and Middle from the Idaho side.

The Grand and Middle from the Idaho side.

Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney

Peaking thru the clouds. Copyright Kaidi Raney

Rappel

Rappel

Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.

Winter conditions on Grand Teton and Mt. Owen.

The Grand Teton, August 2011

The Grand Teton, August 2011

Lower Saddle at sunset

Lower Saddle at sunset

Summit structure, Grand Teton

Summit structure, Grand Teton

Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.

Grand Teton and Glacier Gulch.

Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.

Evening light on Grand Teton, Teewinot Mtn.