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Grand Ledge

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice's Corner TR 
Ballerina 
Beginner's Climb TR 
Black Buttress TR 
Brachiator TR 
Building Blocks TR 
Century Club TR 
Cold Turkey TR 
Conscientious Objection TR 
Cowabunga TR 
Doug"s Roof TR 
Enigma 
Extension TR 
Finesse TR 
Heart and Soul TR 
Impasse TR 
Inappropriate Behavior TR 
Intergalactic Quaalude Trip TR 
Intimidator TR 
Karen's Direct TR 
Karen's Overhang TR 
Let Me Go Wild TR 
Let Me Go Wild TR 
Ludwig's Dude TR 
Mental Blocks TR 
MLF TR 
Mossy Gully TR 
No Soap TR 
Nose, The TR 
One Last Time TR 
Peek-a-boo TR 
Pigeon Shit TR 
Poison Ivy Jam TR 
Potato Chips TR 
Pretzel, The TR 
Raged Edge TR 
Rated X TR 
Rocket Man TR 
Root Route TR 
Schism TR 
Technical Difficulties TR 
Three Mules TR 
Tooth, The 
Trick, The 
Ultimate Bushwack TR 
Unknown H 
Weedies 
Unsorted Routes:
Rest Day:
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Grand Ledge  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 45'
Location: 42.7587, -84.7539 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,636
Administrators: Jason Schneider, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Zuelch on Mar 21, 2007
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Sure....there are rules but they are easy to follo...

Description 

Sunny sandstone top roping in the lower peninsula of Michigan right off of the Grand River. The cliff is only 40 to 45 feet tall at best, but offers very bouldery, challenging climbs. Classic climbs included:

Chips : 5.7
Doug's Roof : 5.10
Rocket Man : 5:10
Pigeon Shit : 5.9???

The cliff faces south and receives sun most of the day. It exists in a City Park, but currently the city is pro climbing. It is the only known cliff in lower Michigan that you can climb at.

Getting There 

Find Grand Ledge, Michigan (use Map Quest or Google). Then head through downtown along Bridge St. Once you cross the bridge, hang a left on the first street. You will drive though a subdivision street until you dead end at Lilly Park. The approach to the cliff is obvious- simply hike down towards the river via trails that take you down to where the cliff breaks down on both sides.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.9 miles from here

47 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',10],['5.10',8],['5.11',3],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Ledge:
Enigma   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   
The Nose   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     TR, 25'   
Potato Chips   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Building Blocks   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Black Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Peek-a-boo   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Brachiator   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Pigeon Shit   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Ludwig's Dude   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   
Rocket Man   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   
Century Club   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 35'   
Doug"s Roof   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     TR, 35'   
Intimidator   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 35'   
Browse More Classics in Grand Ledge

Featured Route For Grand Ledge
Projecting Ragged Edge back in the day. Great Climb!

Raged Edge 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b  MI : Grand Ledge
The striking and unavoidable overhanging arete to the left of "rocket man". Easy climbing leads to a long reach and a several move crux sequence that would make a burly onsite but is pretty tame when the beta is deciphered. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MI

Photos of Grand Ledge Slideshow Add Photo
Leah on Mental Blocks, 5.8
Leah on Mental Blocks, 5.8
Juggler on "Building Blocks"
Juggler on "Building Blocks"
DT on "Mossy Gully"
DT on "Mossy Gully"
The cover of the new, free guidebook for Grand Ledge, MI, available to download at <a href='http://www.fixedpin.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >fixedpin.com</a>
The cover of the new, free guidebook for Grand Led...
DT on "Potato chips"(right) and Dave on "Black Buttress"
DT on "Potato chips"(right) and Dave on "Black But...
"Doug's roof"
"Doug's roof"
Grand Ledge
Grand Ledge
Climbing the dihedral at Oak Park
Climbing the dihedral at Oak Park

Comments on Grand Ledge Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 28, 2013
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 18, 2007
It would be great if anyone with beta could start posting route descriptions. I'd be very interested to see what this place is all about.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2007
What G.L. is all about? Soft rock, regulations, short routes and crowds.
I was told all about it in the early 90's once by someone who enthusiastically encouraged me to try it out. In the end, I went with my girlfriend and both of us decided that the guy who so encouraged us to go there with his praise-laiden descriptions should actually check the place out for himself some time...
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 18, 2007
Tony-

Awesome job on that uncharacteristically pissed off rant! I've heard rumors that agree with your statements above.

Cheers,
James
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2007
Grand Ledge isn't much, I sure wouldn't call it a destination, but it is virtually the only climbing available to Michigan climbers. Because of this, it is crucial that local rules are respected in order to prevent excessive erosion and to maintain good relations with the city.

No lead climbing
No rappelling
Use carpet to pad the edge under your ropes
Do not top out
Tread lightly when setting up TRs and around vegetation on routes

There are a limited number of routes at the Ledges and sharing ropes is the norm. It's a good idea to peek around at the top before you hike down and make sure you are comfortable with getting on someone else's setup. If you see something dangerous, tell the owner of the rope. There are lots of beginners here and I have seen some incredibly bad setups, but a little friendly advice has almost always been well received.
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 20, 2007
edit:the old website is down but the guide has been updated and redone and can be downloaded for free at Fixed Pin Publishing's website
By Mike Mu.
Jul 31, 2007
i 2nd the sketchy setups. i went there once with my then girlfriend and was amazed at what people would entrust their bones to. sketchy! no lead climbing? is that because of rock quality or just some BS put up by the locals?
By GeoffElson
Jun 3, 2008
World class, absolutely not, I would never go out of my way, but if you are near by it really is worth checking out. There is a lot of shit but a few gems mostly of mid-tougher grades. There should be at least one knowledgeable good climber around at any one time who would be happy to give a tour of the best stuff be sure to ask about The Trick (v2), Enigma (v6), Despondency (5.11), Resistance (5.13), Inappropriate Behavior (5.12-), and Raged Edge (5.12). It's easy to be negative about Grand Ledge, but put your ego aside and have a bit of fun.
By jay.kalamazoo
From: kalamazoo, mi
Sep 13, 2009
Grand ledge is really a special place. It is a good spot to see the impact climbers can have- both positive and negative.

many michigan climbers have stopped going to the ledges because of the negative impact- but there are a few short quality routes there.

- please please pad your anchors to reduce erosion and impact on the sandstone.
By CaseyK
From: Tucson, Az
Mar 14, 2010
Here are a few guide books I was able to find online.

higround.com/www.higround.com/...

glc.cheapholds.com/Docs/GL_Gui...

Hope this helps!
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Aug 9, 2010
Fixed Pin Publishing just revamped the old guide originally done by me and now offers a comprehensive, color guide with photo overlays for free to people to download off of their website

Hope you guys enjoy it and let us know what you think of it.


Grand Ledge, MI cover
Grand Ledge, MI cover
By Juggler
May 31, 2011
Update on the above directions: Note the park is called "Oak Park", not Lily Park

Directions from I96 East Bound: Going east from
Grand Rapids take the Grand Ledge exit Wright Rd
(Route 100). Take this south for about 4 miles,
merge turn right onto N Bridge St. Take a right on
W. Front Street just before the bridge(at the Lickity Split). Go all the way until it dead ends at Oak Park

Great place. First time was this past Mem. Day weekend. Met nice folks who are very open to rope sharing. Sweet climbs and only had time to do about 1/10th of them! Will look to come back soon.

Jason- Like your guidebook ALOT!
By Juggler
May 31, 2011
Juggler on "chips"
Juggler on "chips"


Great early season climbing
By Juggler
May 31, 2011
To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to GL and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. There is an airport right in GL they will take us to the climb for a day trip. It is just a little over an hour flight to GL. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). :)
By Woodchuck ATC
May 31, 2011
After reading the location info and earlier comments from several years back, I do remember why I've never made the drive out to see this place. Agree it is NOT a destination climbing location. Too short of routes is one reason.
By Juggler
Jun 1, 2011
Woodchuck: Depends on your goals. It is a great place for the start of the season, it is REAL rock, great sandstone, not crowded, right on the river(great for kayaking too), camping close by, met some very nice climbers, and more.

Some of you folks are just a bit too ELITE and should not knock this sweet climbing area unless you HAVE come out to see it. The climbs are challenging though not tall- Kinda sounds like a local climbing gym that YOU and I frequent. I challenge you to try "Doug's roof" sometime!

It is nice for a day or 2 of climbing. I was pumped after 2 days, early season.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jul 8, 2011
As a visiting climber, I find it funny to see some criticize Grand Ledge for what it clearly isn't. It's a picturesque, Huck Finn locale with some short overhanging climbs you can cop a wicked forearm pump on. Doug's Roof would easily be a world class climb anywhere... well, if it were 70 feet longer and bolted, but still, if I find myself in Michigan in the summertime again, I'll definitely include some more sessions here on the sandbagged sandstone. So, to you Central Michiganders whose lot in life leaves you stranded in the largely flat lands trapped between the options of cornfields, an epic climbing commute, and the toprope haven that is the Grand Ledge, I salute you.
By Rich zz
From: california
Nov 26, 2012
hey guys. i might be relocating to saginaw. checking out what's around. are there any trad places in central MI?
By Boots Ylectric
From: Roselle IL
Jul 28, 2013
I'm really jealous of the town of Grand Ledge having such a cool little crag in it's backyard. World class? No. But if it was all you had, it would be absolutely amazing. My closest climbing is 3 hours away, so to see this crag sitting literally in Grand Ledge's backyard made me pine for my own neighborhood crag. There are some fun pumpy climbs and the backdrop is really nice. The locals all seemed cool, and willing to share climbs and be neighborly. I wish we could have stayed longer, but we were rained off. Hopefully I'll get to come back some time.