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Bill's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agnostic T,TR 
Breakfast of Champions T 
Cheatah T,TR 
Coatimundi Crack T,TR 
Dark Corner, The T,TR 
Derek Smalls' Crack T,TR 
Dogleg T,TR 
Escalation T,TR 
Grand Inquisitor T,TR 
Ignominy T,TR 
Lysurgic Ledge T 
Mr. Bunney Meets The Poultry Man T,TR 
Prophet's Honor T,TR 
PushMi, Pull-Yu T,TR 
Sour Queen TR 
Talk to the Animals TR 
Tom Cat/Pussy Cat TR 

Grand Inquisitor 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: ????
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Sunny warm winter days
Page Views: 1,760
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Apr 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Kris Gorny leading Grand Inquisitor Bill's Buttres...

Description 

Route starts down at lowest point of Bill's Buttress at buttress prow between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left. The starting moves are unprotected and perhaps a bit hard for the grade and folks usually step into the climb via crack and mantle move from the right a bit. Climb thin crack from said ledge that has both slopey as well as angular footholds around it to a horizontal hold at point of base of loose block. Get good pro with long runners and launch into left traverse via good holds for both feet and hands into the crux of the route where one is forced into a pretty much singular answer crux move. Stay calm and place the obvious wired nut gear placement and tug for the jugs above. Stellar steep climbing through this section and no give away for the grade. Follow featured ledges and cracks on face above and climb up into steep groove/crack above and exit onto upper ledges and blocks. Stay climbing on the prow proper at top to help reduce rope drag.
This is a nice long varied route and make sure to use long long runners all along the route to help reduce rope drag.

Location 

Bill's Buttress between route "Agnostic" to the right and route "Coatimundi" to the left.

Protection 

All types and sorts but intense on small wires in first 30 feet or so. The first 15 feet are unprotected unless climber traverses in from right as mentioned above.


Photos of Grand Inquisitor Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Sohasky fights to beat out the 5.7 DL pump th...
Mike Sohasky fights to beat out the 5.7 DL pump th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerry W. leads the Grand Inquisitor at Devil's Lak...
Jerry W. leads the Grand Inquisitor at Devil's Lak...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kris Gorny action shot on the lead of Grand Inquis...
Kris Gorny action shot on the lead of Grand Inquis...
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel on the lead of Grand Inquisitor
Joel on the lead of Grand Inquisitor

Comments on Grand Inquisitor Add Comment
Show which comments
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 27, 2008

Is this climb really 175ft? I walked by it yesterday and it just doesnt seem that tall. Definitely over 100ft.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 27, 2008

Your right-- not that long... Maybe 140ft. Seems like a long way from very toe of buttress all the way up to belay at very top...
I wasn't thinking clearly enough when I typed that figure in. You are not able to hang a 200 ft. rope doubled as a TR setup off the very top I know... I will fix the post.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

There is no way that the glass like slab below the actual route is the start of the route. It's way too damn hard. I started in a nice crack to the right, traversed right, traversed left, made a big move into the crux and got pumped. Great 5.7!
By EB
From: Winona
Jul 27, 2012

Classic route for sure. For added value do the sweet little 5.10 splitter in the tower off the huge belay ledge about 120ft up. Its possible the best section of finger splitter crack in the park, although its on 30ft long max.... definitely worth it though.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 27, 2012

I have always really liked this little un-named 5.10 splitter in the little tower as well. It is a challenge for sure. The gear is straight forward straight in cam placements so it is an awesome little lead because of that. The hitch is there is very little for the feet so the climber has to really bare down on the parallel OK solid finger locks. Too bad this thing is so short. The very first time I lead this was as an extension of route "Escalation" and some rude person (or maybe just really desperate) had left a big ole stool pile at the base of it which made me not hesitate in firing it off in the quickest manner possible. I appreciated the easy and obvious cam placements.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Might be a slight PG13 off the deck but the moves all felt secure. I got good (but small) gear in about 10 feet up. Pull a couple moves and then you get bomber gear before the traverse and crux.

I thought this route was a total classic, it needs more traffic. I thought it was much better than its neighbor Coatimundi and even better than Peters Project. Perhaps my favorite lead at the grade.

We belayed the second from about ten feet below the top on a nice ledge and it was less than half my 70m. I'd say the to the very top it's no more than 120 feet. Use a 70m rope and knot the ends, a 60 for sure wont cut it if lowering or TR.

Seriously, get on this!
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 12, 2015

I knew you would really like this route Joel.... It's a blast to lead...
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Oct 13, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It sure is Burt, awesome lead!! Which part do you guys think is PG13? Is it the first 12 feet off the deck? The crux felt well protected.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 13, 2015

First 15 feet. No pro if you climb that first section straight on. Like I said in the route description, it is possible to climb up on the right and then step along the ledge to the business.

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